I whiddle minis out of solid chunks of wood.

Casting takes too much time, I just steal my shit from GW and local players.

Going to order some Oyumaru to start my own casting soon. Can anyone suggest a good place to order it cheap?

>>14958259
Quick and easy. I like your style. Problem, moralfags? We should be free to do anything we want.

>>14958236
Green stuff ogryns, fuck 12 quid a pop for a unit of ten!!

>>14958259
>>14958282

samefag

>>14958281
ebay

>>14958289
Check it, we are not. Different trolls. Ahem. Posters.

>>14958281
>>14958282
>>14958315

samefag pretending to not be a samefag

>>14958281

no idea, how are you planning on using it though? I've heard mixed things

>>14958236

torsos for my savlar infantry platoons.

>>14958283
But GS is so expensive, I can see that adding up quick.

I started a thread earlier about molding large miniatures, like Arachnarok specifically. >>14957212

Anyone who has molded large minis, tanks for instance, please share what you have learned.

>>14958283

how did you shape the gs?

>>14958328
Jesus, you're gonna have a fun time sawing those risers off.

ATTN AUSFAGS

there's a company near you that does cheap RTV silicone (i.e. the normally expensive stuff)

google 'pinkysil'

>>14958324

I have silicon for the cast itself, I'm going to use the oyumaru for the mold. Heat up, press around the figure, then pour the silicon in. I'm also going to experiment with Elmer's Glue to see how bouncy I can get my figures, and how well it holds with small detail.

The big problem with this is I'm going to have to find bits I haven't already used in my armies to cast.

>>14958356
You're going to make your minis our of silicone? Why?

>>14958323
No Im not! I am totally a diferent poster! I mean, we are! Damnit.

Just finished playing with oyumaru. I need some Vostroyan heads for converting but sculpting them from scratch takes a lot of work. I'm testing three compounds to see what works best.

>>14958395

interesting! make sure to post results for comparisons fellow anon.

I donno if I could use omyru (whatves) it looks too much like something I'd like to eat.

>>14958366

Why not? You have something better?

>>14958356
>>14958395
This is copied from the other casting thread but I'd love more opinions:

What if you used resin in oyumaru moulds... but put it in the fridge? Would the fridge keep the oyumaru from warping while the resin cured at a slower pace or would it not cure at all?

>>14958452

WELL the resin gets pretty hot so it'll rpobably warp your omyru molds.

the fidge wont cool fast enough

>>14958451
Uh, yea, it's called freaking plastic. Smooth Cast 300. If you make your minis out of silicone you wont be able to paint them and they'll be soft. Did you read any tutorials???

Next semester my plan is to start casting skaven, fuck GW and their bullshit

>>14958465
>>14958461
>>14958452

My bad. I have resin, not silicon.

Anyone ever cast resin minis using gelatin moulds?

apparently all the stuff can be brought cheaply from a supermarket.

here's a link
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/

>>14958476
Aren't Skaven kinda dirt-cheap right now what with Island of Blood? Not saying it's a bad idea to deny GW money, but seems like an awful lot of trouble when eBay's around...

>>14958497
Turns soft/liquid when heated :(

>>14958329
GS from Gw is hella expensive, from other places its not...heresy miniatures sell it for 12 quid for a 36 inch reel of it!!! damn cheaper!!
>>14958338
make the mould from this stuff http://dentala2z.co.uk/Pre10423, then push the putty in it so much the mould itself has expanded a bit, then give the mould a bit of a squeeze so it returns to its normal size, some putty will be pushed out, leave overnight and your set!

>>14958487
Could you please detail your testing with resin-on-oyumaru please? I'm >>14958452

I and several of my friends would be indebted to you if you cast even a tiny thing like a bolter or lasgun.

If we had genuine results of it working, GW will be losing 6 more customers.

>>14958511
this this this

make it 7 customers that gw will lose

I've been trying with RTV molds but it always leaks like a mother fucker.

So far I've done 2 zoanthropes. On the first one half the limbs didn't turn out and the back of the head didn't form. On the second I put resin on both halfs of the mold then joined them together which worked better, however one of the tiny arms didn't turn out and looks like a block of plastic. Other than that it looks fine.

I've attempted to make a hive guard out of this weird clay mold stuff I found for cheap at a local hobby place, and the results looked ok at first. But I noticed a ton of buildup in the crevasses (even after using mold release). Also somehow one side of the model got squished and looks flatter than the other.

I attempted to use mold builder to make a ripper swarm that came out with mixed results. It looks ok but alot of the rippers where damaged and had to be replaced (rending the work not worth it). HOWEVER I must say that the mold builder works wonders for making ectra bases. I am currently attempting to use mold builder on individual rippers so we will see how that goes.

is possible to cast using gs and oyamaru?

>>14958558

Yes.

>>14958508

Resin really doesn't heat up that much when setting - not unless you cast really large models.

I've cast resin successful in remelt vinyl rubber - didn't think the process would be any different in this case.

>>14958558

Whole minis would be a bitch, and if you're getting your GS from GW then it's not worth the cost. The mark up for the shit is ridiculous: $10 for 10 inches. You can find that stuff $12 for 36 inches if you shop around online.

Either way, I suggest just using GS for bits and such; a whole model would get out of hand.

>>14958236
Resin cast lasguns of various types and a autogun for my savlar

>>14958558

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4shU7dCXUg

For Swedishmen (or those close enough)
www.kinn.se

Harts(resin) and Silicone.

Have fun.

>>14958573
>>14958595
fuck yeah, I ordered some oyamaru however you spell it and I'm gonna get some cheaper GS asap.

I think this heralds a new era. An era of great things.

>>14958626

I totally meant www.kinn.com

>>14958236
The platoon im working on at the mo, still got the arms to do.
Saved like 200 quid doing it this way.

>>14958577
I'm not too familiar with resin, but I know Smooth Cast 300 gives off a good amount of heat.

>>14958620
that's an amazing video, bookmarking for further reference.

Didn't see this posted yet, so here you go OP.

Dump Commencing.

>>14958236

I started doing castings recently.
The casting has been passable but I'm seeing the need for a vacuum/pressure chamber. I've started pulling together the parts needed to build one.
I'm not sure if using a tire nipple is a good idea considering the vacuum element, so I'm probably going to look into an alternative valve. The metal screw cap on it should be good enough to ensure a seal but better safe than sorry.

>>14958679

And of course I forget the fucking pic.

>>14958577

depending on the resin it can heat up quite a lot, actually.

It's because the polymerisation reaction is exothermic, faster casting resins basically release a lot more energy in a short amount of time.

my 30min casting resin easily increases temp from 21C to 50C when I'm mixing it.

>>14958534

Keep at it soldier- you'll find a method that works for you. It took me three/four attempts to get to the point where I *know* I can produce a mould and a cast first time round.

Thankfully I used cheap materials

>>14958283

That looks pretty cool. Do you have a bigger picture?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk

This is a decently comprehensive guide to resin casting with a two part silicone mold. A bit hands on but i'd think that resin casting is one of the cheapest and, once you actually get your molds made fastest ways to cast an army.

This guy in particular seems to have his shit together pretty well, the video is detailed and he produces some decent looking minis, though you don't actually get to see them painted or anything.

>>14958236
>>14958708
i think so
DUMPATHON!!!!

>>14958236
>>14958708
one of the completed ones.

>>14958689

Save face, blame it on captcha.

>>14958236
another one.

Any of you have brand recommendations for both RTV and resin?

I was using a 15 minute cure time for resin and found that it's just a little too fast. Probably want to shoot for *at least* 30 minutes cure, I think.

The RTV I'm using currently (I forget the brand and I'm not at home ATM) mixes on a 1 to 1. The white part should be mixed thoroughly since elements settle at the bottom and get to be like mud down there. It gets difficult to stir.

>>14958236
>>14958791
http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/copy_of_Sika_Casting_Resins.html
Resin wise i use this one (G27 beige), sets pretty quick though, why do you need one that sets so slowly?

As for RTV, i use this in combination with the above resin, works well, easy to cut, lasts ages too when used again and again.
http://dentala2z.co.uk/Pre10423

>>14958791

TOMPS fast cure polyurethane resin

>>14958842

I found that 15 minutes doesn't give enough time to work out bubbles on parts with very fine details. I've been forcing the resin into the mold under partial pressure with a syringe but the tiny air bubbles tend to remain (these are not air pockets as you might find with poor venting.) No needle -can you imagine how much a bitch that would be to clean?

I recently picked up a pretty big syringe so I can save myself a few seconds of draw time from mix to mold. Costs about 1.50 USD for it.

>>14958917
Ah right, makes sense.

TIPS TO AVOID BUBBLES

Rub material into mold with finger or brush to get entire surface.
Don't use too much release.
Shake and tilt the mold while and after filling.

I found this article once while looking for information on casting. Might with the air/bubbles.
http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007/03/resin-casting-tutorial-part-iv.html

I'm attempting (see: experimenting) with a large block of paraffin wax I bought a long time ago on a whim, to see if it makes good enough molds to use resin on a few times. It might be fun, and this wax is just sitting around doing nothing.

>>14958968
>"You know what I feel like? buying a big block of fucking wax. Yeah. That's cool."

No ill will towards you, I just find that fucking hilarious.

>>14959049

You wanna know the funny thing? That's exactly what I did. I was at an art store and a 10lbs block of it was ten bucks on sale. So why the fuck not?

So far: Created a mold around a d20. Mold was too thin and shattered almost instantly. Thicker mold is around a warhammer piece right now. We'll see how it goes.

>>14958968

I can see how paraffin might be limited in use due to inflexibility. There might be a temperature problem but maybe not for pewter?

>>14959227

So far my experiments seem to be a failure. The wax is too brittle. I wish I could afford oyumaru.

>>14959301
You just spent more money on a big thing of useless wax than on 6 sticks(more than enough for any model) of Oyumaru.
That plus another 20 bucks would have gotten you enough resin to cast like 40-50 models.

>>14959326

Clearly you're not seeing he point here. I didn't get it for making molds. I got it because it's a big block of fucking wax.

>>14959301

oyumaru isn't that bad. I think you can get it for like 6 bucks.

You can probably use the paraffin for simple 1 piece casting for stuff like terrain walls and the like. Just make sure it's thick. You might need to dress the final product a little.

>>14959338
Well what are you going to do? Make a 10lb candle?

>>14959346

So far it seems to be pretty shitty for this but its taking up less room on a shelf now, so mission accomplished. I plan ti get oyumaru when I get the money. I already have resin waiting.

>>14959360

No. That would be silly.

>>14959373
But would the resin's exothermic reaction produce enough heat to deform the oyumaru mould? That's what I'd like to know, cause then I'd be churning out entire boxed sets out of my fucking bedroom every day.

>>14959408

From what i've heard it seems to come out perfectly.

>>14959408

Yes.

>>14959428
Source? Because everything I've read says it will not work, and plasti lets off ALOT of heat when turning solid.

>>14959428
You must make a topic on /tg/ detailing your process. I MUST have a guarantee of this working before I shell out for a ton of resin, you'd be saving me much moolah, broseph :V

>>14959408
Don't you own a fridge? If you're that worried, toss that shit in the fridge for the first few minutes, then let it finish curing at room temp.

>>14959449

Weird. Everything I've read states differently.

>>14959360
I kind of what to make gaming themed candles now.

Could…

…If I had the molds for a dreadnaught could I put a wick in it and make a dreadnaught candle? Could I make pile of guardsman candles for a Warhammer themed birthday cake?

COULD I MAKE A MOB OF PARAFFIN ORKS FIGHTING A BATTALION OF THE PARAFFIN GUARD, AND SET THEM UP FOR A BATTLE ON TOP OF A BIRTHDAY CAKE, WHILE ON FIRE?

I think this is one of the best ideas I've had in a while. >brb, getting older so I can justify putting more candles on my next birthday cake

>>14959458
Yes I do own a fridge, I asked this question on two threads now: Would resin still cure (albeit slower) if put into a fridge or will it stop curing completely?

If you can put resin in oyumaru and leave it to cure for a few hours in the fridge so the mould won't deform due to heat, I'd be in business.

Oyumaru is not for pour molds.
Use silicone. Amerifags can get enough resin/silicone to do a whole army from http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/ for 60$.
Casting's already hard enough without using wierd shit like wax and oyumaru.

>>14959469
You can, and you should.

>>14959516
Yes. It cures fine. Just take it out after a few minutes to finish curing at room temp. I've cast a mess of wraithguard and night runners this way.

>>14959601
I see, so it takes how long for it to cure?

I put the resin in the mould, shove it in the fridge for 5-10 minutes then take it out till it finished curing after, say 10 minutes?

Also, got any photos (maybe of the process also?)

>>14959653
Pretty much this, but for final cure time I'd wait a bit longer. If you try to demold too early, the resin is still flexible and possible to muck up detail. On the safe side, after I pull 'em out of the fridge I wait about 30 minutes.

Pics, no. I'll try to scrounge some up soon.

>>14958248

motherfucker has like 8000 points of Empire in there

>>14959759
>>14959759

This thread has inspired me to cast my Chaos Space Marines. I am worried about casting Chaos Terminators however, those bastards have a lot of small details all over them.

From what I have seen, I will try to make silicone molds rather than Oyumaru.

Should have enough money to start in a few weeks. Thanks to everyone for spreading the wealth of information. I will be sure to document my endeavors and post as much as I can when everything is said and done.

>>14959747
A thousand blessings! May your camels stay healthy and the blessed wind of Allah be at your back until you join him, friend.

It's time /tg/. It's time to DUPE TILL I DROP.

20K POINT APOCALYPSE MATCHES, HERE I FUCKING COME.

>>14959759
EEEEEEEEEEEEEMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIL!!!!!!!!!!

>>14959653
Cold casting is a pretty interesting method, though it takes a LOT longer. I recommend putting both halves of the resin in the fridge (or even freezer) to cool them down before casting, even if you weren't planning to set the molds in the fridge, colder resin reacts more slowly, meaning not only do you have less risk of damaging the mold, but you have more working time to stir, degas and pour.

However, keeping molds in the freezer would indeed keep many resins from setting up at all.. If you can put a shaker table in your freezer, this is great, otherwise, meh.

To answer your question, in the fridge, you might increase the set time by 50% to 100%, so don't assume it will just take a few minutes longer.

>>14959775

Watch some videos first! I cannot stress how important it is, otherwise it will catch and set around an arm, and you'll lose the piece. You CANNOT do this with complete models!

>>14959803
I understand bro, but if I'd be trading speed of curing for the mould to not be deformed then it's far better. I don't mind waiting a day for stuff to set but I DO mind all my work going down the shitter cause everything comes out looking like Meltman from Kablam!

>>14959823
>>14959823

I have the youtube video that was posted earlier saved, along with the entire series. Before I start I will be sure to gather up as much info as I can.

Now, how difficult would it be to cast a Land Raider, or Defiler, as long as all of the parts are separated?

>>14959469

This thread is now about this man, his huge block of wax and his struggle to make candles.
I know there are places that sell candle scents with really weird smells. NURGLE THEME CANDLES

>>14959846

Depends on what you're using I suppose. Oyumaru seems to be only good for the small pieces. Anything larger and you'd need molding clay ($3 for a pound at any art store/school) since the pieces are generally a lot larger.

Wax Guy here, I'm trying a much larger amount of wax around a d20 right now, in the hopes of eventually making chocolate d20's.

We found a small ball of molding clay in someone's closet. This stuff holds details really well, but it's far too dirty to use. I might attempt to make some guns with it later or something, since every tutorial suggests molding clay + resin.

>>14959902

Found a vendor selling Leather Scented Candles at an event recently. This... worries me.

>>14959947

Wouldn't that just make the dice taste like wax? I have eaten chocolate that tasted like wax, it was not pleasant.

>>14959360
>>14959399

What? That would be awesome. Make a giant 10 pound castle candle! It could be dual purpose: Terrain and emergency lighting!

>>14959997

The chocolate would melt the wax. This is a EXPERIMENT, because the wax is junk, and I don't want to waste the expensive resin I have before I know what I'm doing.

From what everyone is saying, the resin would heat up the wax too much anyway, so this is all just for fun at this point. We're experimenting more with the modeling clay now than the wax.

>>14959902

They have candles in the shape of skulls w/ a different colour wax on the inside. Once it burns down enough, the inside wax 'bleeds' out of they eye sockets.

>>14960046

Now that is just absolutely Satanic. It's good to see the very feminine hobby of candle making get turned into that.

Hmm, with enough time and a little effort I could cast any army I want with substantially less cost. Tau, tyranids, the whole shebang.

Another question. As long as I am casting these for myself, and not distributing them in any way, it is perfectly legal correct?

I am very excited for this...

>>14960109

I don't know, and if it's illegal how are you going to get prosecuted if you keep them to yourself? I think the worst that could happen is you getting banned from a GW store/tournament if they found out.

>>14960109
Yes it's perfectly legal, just don't boast about it.

Besides, fuck GW. It's been assreaming you and everyone else for years, they don't deserve your concern.

>>14960146
>>14960146

This is true and I agree whole-heartedly. I was just curious.

I have never had a problem pirating a video game in the past, now I shall move on to pirating real life shit. Although casting is far more legal..... I am still going to wear a pirate hat the entire time I am working on this.

>>14960146

Kind of like how I don't boast about making moonshine. If few knows you do it, no one's gonna ask for you to sell to them, you won't get tempted into selling and no one's going to bust you.

>>14960219
Methanol eh?

>>14960271

Ethanol, actually. No reason to bother making Methanol, that's pretty cheap to buy as is and I don't really have any use for it.

Here is a bit of information I would like to know from those of you that are already casting:

How many pulls did it take before you got an acceptable cast? Was the first pull good to go, or did it take a bit of refining and trial/error?

Going by the silicone/resin method- has anyone been able to duplicate full sprues or am I gonna have to cut off each piece and do it that way?

>>14960410
you can sell methanol to people that make bio-diesel, its one of the ingredients along with lye and fryer grease.

>>14960175

The legality is basically: As long as you aren't selling it or making any kind of profit on it, who cares?

Now, your FLGS WILL CARE. I need to make this clear:

DO NOT TELL YOUR FLGS YOU ARE DOING THIS. THEY WILL FLIP THEIR SHIT.

You're taking away from their profits that are made by selling GW figures they buy from GW. Should they be angry? Yes.

On the other hand, once you buy the figures, you can do whatever the fuck you want with them.

>>14960519
I don't think this really applys for OOP figurines. I mean they can't get them and the only place you can get them is over ebay or one of those trading sites. As for new shit...haha

>>14960623

Ok, I have to be the idiot: OOP?

I've shown my FLGS owner several custom-made pieces, and he loved them and allows them in tournament play. If I made an entire model in this method though, I probably would never be allowed to return.

>>14960679
out of production

I've tried casting before with a resin called "Alumilite". My advice: Stay away from this stuff. It's cheap-ish, and sets fast, but it sets TOO fast. You literally have like 15-20 seconds to pour this shit and get any air bubbles out before it sets. So it could be good for large pieces that you want to crank out, but for smaller pieces it's rubbish.

>>14960486

Like I said, I wouldn't want to sell it as that will bring down the cops on you.
Although it's not impossible for a regular joe to get a permit to produce methanol for personal fuel needs, IIRC.

>>14960853
yeah its just a tax stamp.

>>14960853
a permit to produce methanol? See, this is where my usual ignorance on laws n such comes forward but who gives a fuck?

Are they going to do random raids on a random guy's house and jot down every illegal thing on a notepad? Fuck 'em I say, do your own shit so long as you don't boast.

Shit, I made fucking napalm and thermite in my kitchen, whose going to stop me?

>>14960962

A stiller large enough to satisfy your fuel needs would most likely need to be large, smelly, give off a lot of heat and so on. If you had a garage of your own and no snoopy neighbours, sure.

And before you know it you're gonna get caught with 2 cubic metres of stolen sawdust in the back of your car. In all of your car. You are sitting in it as you drive.

to various anons asking various questions

>will I get perfect results first try?

Depends on the method you're using. Probably not if you're using silicone or silicone sealant methods

GOLDEN RULE- Test before you try. That way you don't imbed your $30 warhams in a tomb of silicone.

try making just one mould half of a good test peice (something you don't care about with surface detail), then make two halves, try pouring your resin, and build up your confidence.

It took me three attempts to make something that I could clean up to tabletop standard, and another attempt to get things just right.

While it may feel like a waste of time this does save materials in the long run, and once you're over the learning curve you can cast away pretty easily.

>can I cast whole sprues?

Probably not- resin is expensive (though not as expensive as warhams) and you don't really want to be using all your resin to replicate sprues.

Sprues exist because when you're mass-producing plastic minis you want your tools (steel mould halves) to have as large a surface area as possible with as many peices on the sprue to maximise profit.

this is because the tools cool down quicker after each demould - you can make more shit faster.

generally what I do is for larger peices use a silicone mould and for smaller ones use a latex glove mould. But each piece is removed from the sprue and filed and cleaned up beforehand. No point in casting all of GW's mouldlines as well as making your own

Post more results!

almost missed this thread today

anyway I made this slag troll with oyumaru and milliput
the feet got fucked and one even broke, but i managed to fix it by casting new ones.
more pics next

>>14961382
not only this was my first try at molding and casting but also in painting miniatures (I usually lurk here for the occasional boardgames thread)

>>14961260

my first testpeice cast in wax

>>14961400
I also have some files ordered and on the way so that I won't have to use my dremel to trim the miniatures (yeah, a dremel, i'm new to the hobbie and borderline idiot).

>>14961400
>>14961382

that's really good- I wouldn't expect that kind of quality with milliput and jappo jelly.

Do you have a pic of the mould that you cast it from? looks to me like a two piece one

I've been using oyumaru and milliput for casting stuff for a bit, mostly making 1kson heads. I've just started on making another copy of the common parts of the Necrosphinx/Warsphinx, the mold for half the body turned out surprisingly well.

two piece oymaru moulds, how do they work?

>>14961494
exactly, just took these from some leftovers

i used talc powder to prevent air bubbles but ended up having talc bubles instead D:

>>14961661
and joined

I love this thread so damn much.

also bits for a troll impaler, an already assembled slag troll (another one, second try) and some leftover oyumaru.

>>14961683
>>14961661

it's looking a lot like I could really do with investing in some of this stuff

front of the new slag troll

back (i really need those files)

>>14958282
>>14958259
mfw samfeag

>>14961741
In fact I checked it, not samefag. Surprisingly.

>>14958607
is the mold..... blue tac?

>>14961766
mfw half assed defense

>>14961741
>>14961802

We determined we don't care about... what... 4 or 5 hours ago?

>>14961728
>>14961736

im cum

is this standard milliput or a white variety?

Hey guys, would it be possible to mould up some stuff that was still on the sprue? Pic related - I really want to build an iron-armour marine chapter, so is it a good idea to mould the parts like this? or to seperate them from the sprue?

>>14962150

I can't see any problem with this, of course I don't have any experience. This is what I planned to do for the most part.

Take the leg sprue, as long as the legs are pointing towards the top of the mold, and you place another bit of sprue some where in the middle to act as an injection point like this image:

>>14958607

I would trim off a lot of the excess sprue as well so you aren't wasting resin.

>>14961980
standard yellow milliput, a pack of it was able to cast 3 trolls, 3 pygs and some leftovers for some random crap.
Good for skirmish type games, donno if it's good for 40k.

>>14962150
Take off some of the sprue and I'll go into a bit of detail since you'll need it for this me thinks.

First off go buy some plasticine(since you can pour silicone over it). Now you'll need to push the legs, torso, etc. into the plasticine(also make sure to key the mould, simply get a pen or something and push it in to create an indent) and make sure that they are halfway covered in the plasticine. Next create an upraised line of plasticine connected to the bits. Then create the walls of the mould box either out of plasticine or mdf(I reccomend mdf).

Now comes the hard part, mix the silicone in with the silicone catalyst. From what I remember it is 1 to 2 percent silicone catalyst to silicone's weight. Mix throughoughly and then when it is mixed pur from the corner of your casting box until covered sufficently. Now due the following:
A) If you have a degassing chamber USE IT. Cause it gets out air bubbles like nobody's business.

B)USe a laundry machine, set it to spin and put the mould on top of it. Ta-da most of the bubbles will be out.

Bubbles are bad and can hurt a mould espeically when casting in resin. Now leave it for a day. Ad the end of the day peel back all the plasticine from your bits and make sure to NOT REMOVE THEM IN THE PROCESS. Also make sure to create the other half of the plasticine pour point and then pour in the other half of the mixed silicone. Wait another day and there ya go. Your own little two part mould. :)

>own utomist

interesting captcha, interesting...

Wax Guy here.

Just updating to say that the wax DID NOT work, but from everything we learned while experimenting with it, we are now going to be using a mixture of resin and modeling clay to make pieces for the rest of the day. I need to rip apart some Terminators!

Also:
>>14962429
Thanks for the advice on the dryer, that's a damn good idea!

>>14962892
Cheers! Glad it helped at least.

Was a handy solution for a crystal clear resin I sued after college shut downthe workshop we use for our course in the summer :I.

>>14962962
Although that post is understandable, at first blush i thought that your college was the College of Magic, from that Workshop, and you were suing them. :(

>>14963009
Hurr lol no.
God work for games workshop, thou mad?

Nah the course I'm in covers film prop making and casting small to large objects in silicone/clay/plaster hence why I do it and practice it and a lot of 3D... hoo boy a lot of 3D. But yeah casting in silicone is the promo way to go for this business, a need file, 80 grade sandpaper double side taped to a block of mdf and a dremel are all that really can be used for this.

>>14963009

At first reading, I'm still confused about "blush"

>>14963047
Since you have good advice, please advise me on this: I have made about 10 molds, but did a poor job with the vents. What is the best approach to resolve them? Pick a direction and tunnel up?


Also, will baby powder work for the molds, or does it have to be talcum powder with no additives?
>>14963058

I see what you did there ...

>>14963113

I just use a carving knife and scratch upwards in any direction. As long as the air is getting out it shouldn't matter.

I use Pam oven spray for mine. I suppose powder would be better though...

>>14963113
Ergh... okay I've only had to do this once or twice but basically yeah jut be very very carfeful and do it with a surgical scalpel or knife. Think of it liek cutting a pear or apple where you make a square cut. Jsut make sure that it is thin enough that it won't waste to much resin. Also that it's wide enough for the resin to go down. above all else try not to use a drill, I made that mistake once when I was being an idiot in my first year of my course, paid for it by having to recast the pillar :I.

Talcum, no additives also coincidentally you can do a light spray of silicone release agent which extends a mould's life by a good number of casts. Also an easy way of getting silver is to spray on a bit of silver spray paint(only a light coating) into the mould before puring in the resin.

ITT: Whiny bitches cry some more about something which isn't that big a deal, think everything in life should be given to them on a platter free of charge.

>>14963183

>didn't read the thread and see how much work and trial and error this involves

0/10

>>14963218

Wow, sorry, shit, I didn't realize being pathetically cheap and sore was so hard work. And there I thought you were all COMPLETE wastes of DNA.

>>14963245
Let's see you make two casts of a legend of zelda ruppee only to find your shed is on a tilt mate. Or better still see you cast somethign in silicone with no help, would love to see how far you get.

Hell I don't even play 40K I'm just in here and staying up late to help some elegan/tg/entlemen out.

Has anyone made an entire space marine?

Does anybody have some comparrison shots? Say, the original next to the copy so we can get an idea for just how direct a copy can be done? How about those instruction images that run us through step-by-step?

I'm seriously considering this with the recent fiasco that is GW-OZ, but I've never worked with anything like this before.

blump

>>14958236

Do you have more hi-res pictures? I'm starting to wonder if I won't cast things myself, but I would have to know it can be done to a standard that's nearly visually-indstinguishable. Not 'close enough is good enough', but to the point that, when painted, you'd need to actually hold the model up to your eyes to spot the flaws.

>>14958395 here.
I fucked up pretty bad but I got what I needed. The components I used were Magic Sculp, greenstuff and acrylic resin. The resin in question was not made for this and regular greenstuff couldn't hold enough detail for my liking. Already made another batch to have some Sculp in them. You just have to be a bit careful when filling the oyumaru with whatever component you have to not warp the product as it still retains some elasticity.

Okay I've been making molds using the "dunk it in latex methods" like in that picture, and I'm wondering if supaglue will hold latex together so i can repair molds and stop resin leaking out?

This is my flamer SoB

>>14967428
dunking in latex works but you should cover the latex mould in milliput or some harder substance.

>>14961411
my god that's blurry, did you cast a poo?

Here's a question... Can you reheat and reuse oyumaru if you decide yo want to make a different mold with it?

>>14961129

When using RTV silicone make sure to use plenty of separating agent to prevent the two mould halves sticking together.

WD-40 works well, this is the best advice I can give.

>>14968558

yes, that's the beauty of it

just boil a kettle and put some hot water in a bowl and it takes seconds to soften

or if you're a smart nigger keep a pan of water on a stove, or use a Thermos Flask so you always have hot water

Here's a Pretorian Stalker I cast out of roofing lead.

bump