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  • File : 1300890119.jpg-(695 KB, 1000x750, DSC00727.jpg)
    695 KB Omnomnomaru - first test report Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:21 No.14338126  
    Afternoon chaps, my ochinchinmaru just arrived in the mail so I gave it a try.
    Someone asked me to post my results, observations and whatnot, so here goes.

    Some observations:
    -It does NOT stick to models or GS
    -It DOES however stick to itself so smaller bits are no wasted
    -It never becomes really hard, so it's easy to pull models out of the mold
    -Perfectly reusable. If you fuck up / don't need the mold any more, just put it back in the water for a while
    -The water needs to be hot. As such, you can't do a lot of re-heating with a single cup. If the water cools down, the Oppaimaru won't soften properly. As such, be prepared to re-heat your water a few times if you intend on doing a lot of molds.
    -Keeps detail well and handles even fairly deep holes in the models, provided you use enough of the stuff.
    -You might want to make thicker molds if possible. It can make thin ones too, but they bend around more easily which is annoying.
    -Can be cut with scissors or a hobby knife when soft or hard, and torn apart by hand when soft.

    Aside from using it to dupe components or models, it's also good for just duplicating some detail onto GS, which can the be applied on a model. For instance, copying a design off a shoulderpad, then applying it on a breastplate.

    I haven't tried making a whole model yet, so more on that at a later time. From what I tried, it seems (obviously) that bricks are far easier to dupe. Also, I don't have any resin on hand to try that either.

    Overall, it's not quite magic, but it is fucking brilliant nontheless. Depending on what you want from it, it can be absolutely brilliant (making capes, loincloths, copying details) or completely dildos (duping lots of full models / vehicles)
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:22 No.14338131
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    And a quick side-by-side of Sigvald and his clone
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:28 No.14338160
    Interesting. is this some sort of reusable moulding material?

    would like to know more about it if so. might be useful for making lost-wax masters for bronze and steelcasting, and always like to try new methods.

    or, in other words explain more.
    >> noko Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:28 No.14338163
    where can one order this?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:31 No.14338183

    Bit of a coincidence but mine came through today op, looking forward to giving it a try later. Your results are encouraging.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:32 No.14338188
    It's some japanese stuff someone told /tg/ about a couple of days ago.
    In short, you put it in hot water, let it sit for a few minutes, stretch it out and around whatever you want a mold of, let it cool for a few mins, remive the model and stuff some Greenstuff or resin or something in it.
    Bam. Instant (or, well, in a few hours) parts/models.
    Can be reused by heating it up again.
    Ebay has it, I got it from an art shop.
    Look up "oyumaru"
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:35 No.14338212
    Moar info in >>14338188

    TL;DR: It's reuable molding clay from Japan some Anon mentioned a few days ago. Great for duping minis/parts.
    It's damn good. The only real downsides are that some more complex parts take a few tries to get right and that it takes quite a bit of GS to make the parts themselves.
    Overall though, easy to use, good results, and cheap as fuck.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:37 No.14338232
    ahh. sort of plastic-rubbery material?

    if so, you can probably get it easier and in bigger volumes in europe and the US under the name "vinamould" costs about £4 / $5 for 1/2kilo / 1lb

    you can also heat vinamould to higher temperatures, and pour it as a completely liquid material, and it'll flow to make perfect moulds. would have to be careful with plastics as it might melt the plastic original though.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:39 No.14338254
    Never heard of it, but it sound good.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:40 No.14338258
    It's not a clay, it's a non-stick plastic that becomes soft when heated and hard when cooled.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:41 No.14338268
    Yeah I can see Epoxy Putty not being the perfect thing to use for anything too deep.

    Brilliant for smaller things like banners/capes/detailing...etc...though.

    I can see combining this with information from some of the other 2 part moulding tutorials, like using lego to hold and line up mould halfs would be great.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:44 No.14338288
    You can also use Elmer's Glue as a casting medium. Just squirt it in, wait 24 hours for it to cure, take it out (with gloves on to eliminate fingerprints), glue it on and prime it.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:45 No.14338290
    here you go:


    effectively, a liquid vinyl. melts at 150C, so pretty hot, but then flows to create a perfect all-round mould of an object. obviously, not so good for plastics that might melt, but at 500g for £4, about 1/10th the price of the japanese stuff.

    you might also like to try "siligum" which is a blue 2-peice silicone urethane. I use a lot of it four moulding buckles and similar objects for reenactment.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:51 No.14338334
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    Got back from the hospital, and I need to warn any other idiots out there. Keep in mind, I didn't think I was an idiot until I did the stupidest thing in the world.

    I bought this stuff, and I don't really have a stove, so I was planning on using a little electric boiler pot I got as a gift. The onsakumaru worked great, but my water would cool down way too fast, and take too long to heat with my electric boiler pot. So, after I just got tired of waiting, I realized that my microwave could do the job a lot faster.

    So, I stick in a mug filled with water into my microwave, blast it for 4 minutes, and get ready to open the door and enjoy the fruits of my genius.

    For those that don't know, a microwave works by exciting water molecules (and to a lesser degree on fats and sugats). When you microwave water, it receives so much energy so quickly that it becomes "Super-heated."

    Super-heated water is water that is hotter than 100C/212F, but has not boiled because it's vapor pressure has not exceeded the ambient pressure. That means that doing anything that disturbs the atmosphere around a mug of superheated water, lets say something like opening a microwave door, causes ALL THE WATER TO BOIL INSTANTANEOUSLY, CAUSING IT TO EXPLODE.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:54 No.14338349
    Script, can you see yourself using this stuff consistently?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:55 No.14338353
    Holy Shit.

    Is that your face in that pic?

    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:55 No.14338358
    ...And this is why you need to fucking cover up stuff in a microwave. And ensure you don't nuke things for so fucking long.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:55 No.14338359
    So can this stuff be used on Forge World models safely and still keep the same amount of detail? Would love to be able to buy a single squad of Elysians and be able to pump out a 2000 pt army for a drastically lower cost.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:56 No.14338368
    Yes, exactly. I have no idea why I said clay.
    My bad.
    I'll need to try 2-part molds soon.
    Doesn't that end up spongy? I'm not sure since I've never tried but it sounds like it'd end up spongy.
    Lovely, thanks bro
    Very good info there. Remember kids, do not boil things in the microwave.
    I use an electric kettle myself, mostly because it's faster than using the stove.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)10:57 No.14338374
    when we're on this topic, are there any other things you would recommend from this ebay seller? For miniature crafting I mean. Either duping or anything else, I am trying some stuff for first time (an failing miserably) and I want to stock up some things, just dont know what.
    >> Slaaneshi whore lord 03/23/11(Wed)10:58 No.14338382
    that sucks bro.

    I was gonna order some of this myself scripty, can you tell me the difference between the white and the clear types? will it matter i I use the colored ones? ( I ask because the only ebay supplier ran out of clear.)
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)10:59 No.14338389
    As soon as I learn how to make shoulderpads, heads, loincloths and capes well (ergo, after about 3 or 4 tries) I imagine many of my models will have duped parts on them in the future.
    It's better for parts than full models, but if you're up for it, yeah, I think that would be doable.
    Also, since it's reusable, it's great for making just a few copies of a certain part, then moving on to another. This is perfect for my purposes but might be less optimal for someone who wants to dedicate a mold to making thousands of copies of the same part/model.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)11:01 No.14338409
    You can see the model more easily in the clear stuff, but I'm using some green right now and the only difference is it looks like alien slime rather than foggy ice.
    So, no difference really.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)11:01 No.14338410
    This? This is archived.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)11:03 No.14338419
    Anyone knows under which name this stuff is sold in Germany?
    >> dice2 03/23/11(Wed)11:03 No.14338422
    Bit of detail lost on the face there Scripty, but I can't tell if that's because of the mold or the greenstuff.

    I'm interested and I want to test it with resin for /tg/ but I can't find a place that will ship oyumaru clay to Australia for less than $15-20 shipping for a $3 stick.
    >> Slaaneshi whore lord 03/23/11(Wed)11:04 No.14338440
    excellent, how many bricks do you recommend? and about how much greenstuff do you think it would take to do a IG sized trooper (or maybe an Escher ganger)?

    and do you think this might be a good way to do a troll army?
    >> Slaaneshi whore lord 03/23/11(Wed)11:06 No.14338459
    it's the same shipping to me mate, luckily they combine shipping so I'm just gonna get like 15-20 dollars worth and see how far it will take me. (you can always combine and reuse it as well)
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)11:08 No.14338476
    Ther detail loss is probably from me derping more than the Oyumaru, but yeah, there will be some fine detail loss.
    I got 12 bricks, but all the shit in my 1st photo was done with 1.
    Archaon's rather huge legs ate a full brick on their own though, so get at least 2.
    As for how much GS it eats, well it eat's it's own size. I can't really guestimate that well but a IG trooper might eat like what, half a stick (GW size) or GS? maybe a bit less.
    >> Slaaneshi whore lord 03/23/11(Wed)11:15 No.14338549
    well I'm trying to do some calculations, after inital investment you can reuse the bricks which is fine, but I plan on getting some milliput (a box of green stuff for half the price) and want to know how much I should pick up on my first go. I'm thinking if all goes well I can get about 10 maybe 15 out of a box of the stuff, and if that is so I'll still come out ahead than just buying them.

    I just wanted a guess-tamation on how much you think it would consume.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)11:19 No.14338589
    I heard milliput is quite brittle, can anyone confirm/deny this?
    >> Slaaneshi whore lord 03/23/11(Wed)11:21 No.14338610
    according to their site you can use some versions of it to fix piping leaks.

    I think the white version or terracotta version is the most brittle.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)11:23 No.14338638
    It can be; I use it for repairing teacups and the like. If you're gentle there shouldn't be too much of an issue with snapping parts as you remove them from the mold (thinner parts might be best left to GS though, just in case).
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)11:42 No.14338823
    I want to use resin to make the actual models after using the oyumaru. But i've never used resin to make anything. anyone have a good guide with a list of supplies?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)11:58 No.14338941
    might as well throw some notes into here.


    Fuck games workshop, get it from the suppliers for 1/5th the price:


    $15 for a 3-foot strip of it, instead of 6 inches for $10

    Australia, you can get it here for $22AUS for 36 inches:
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:00 No.14338950
    from what I have heard resin warps the oyumaru mold because it causes a release of heat. greenstuff or a clear plastic (like from a model shop or a train scenics set) is probably better
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:16 No.14339077
    When the Elmer's Glue dries and hardens, it's quite rigid. It also has just a little bit of bend to it, so if you drop the piece, it'll bounce rather than shatter into several bitz.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:18 No.14339089
    for moulding in a simlar fashion to ochinchinmaru, you may want to try Gedeo Siligum:
    non-reusable, but captures detail brilliantly.

    well worth it for objects that you want to make multiples of. mixes the same as greenstuff, can be used to press-mould, with GS, or with resin or pewter/white metal casts. multiple pewter castings will degrade the silicone.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:26 No.14339156
    Vinamould seems more hardy and not very easy to use given the whole high-temperature deal.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:27 No.14339169
    I tried to look for photos of this, but couldn't find any... maybe you have some? I'm curious how does a glue mini look.
    Also, does it dry inside? I tried pouring some into a little paint container and it dried only on top. Will the miniature in mold dry properly without air access?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:42 No.14339296
    I'm very curious to see how a PVA glue mini would look like as well. Doesn't it flake or tear easily? I'd imagine it'd stink like a sewer too.

    I'm mostly worried about it melting in the heat (we get pretty awful summers here in the south med) or the paint will eat at it.
    >> ­­Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:43 No.14339312
    How about making new torso/legs...

    Can I make like two parts of a pair of legs, put the GS and glue them togehter, is that an option or would resin be better there?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:50 No.14339376

    Yo fab, have you tried using thicker pieces of Onomomom
    to cast larger parts that pads etc?

    I'm going to try moulding a complete model later, and im going to try making a 2 part mold using thicker onyomomm
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:54 No.14339417
    Does this hold up the same as GW's GS? Anyone with experience with this product?
    Any suggestion as to what clear plastic works best?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)12:59 No.14339468
    Please try this and post results. I am very interested.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)13:00 No.14339471
    Should work with GS too, trying it as we speak.
    I've tried really thin and quite thick ones, thicker = better it seems.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:02 No.14339493
    i'd say any slow cure resin would work. the easycast i use has a 12 hour soft cure time (72 hr hard cure) but there is no noticeable heat. though anything with a cure time of more than 30 minutes should do just fine in small quantities.
    >> Alpharius 03/23/11(Wed)13:02 No.14339495

    The milliput things I have done have been tough as nails. If you make it in smaller pieces it might be brittle, as there is not a lot of give in it. Milliput also comes in different types, so that might make a difference.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:04 No.14339520

    If the thread is still up later i will. GTG take care of business
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:05 No.14339532
    I'd really love to see how well it handles making resin duplicates of full models. Not in a "haha screw you GW" way, I just love the idea of being able to make things yourself.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:07 No.14339554
    Is this art shop in Finland and do they have a website ?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:10 No.14339588
    >Does this hold up the same as GW's GS? Anyone with experience with this product?

    absolutely identical. infact produced by the same company as GW greenstuff, on the same factory line.
    GW just repackages it and charges 5-6 times as much.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:10 No.14339589
    Can anyone answer me this please?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:14 No.14339623
    In a previous thread a guy said that the resulting model is a bit bendy, so larger stuff might need internal support and you can't do without a primer when you want to paint the thing.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)13:14 No.14339629
    Yes and yes
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:14 No.14339635
    >I've tried really thin and quite thick ones, thicker = better it seems.

    thicker moulds will result in much less warping and distortion of the moulded object. general rule using siligum or a similar mould is make a block 10mm thick at least.

    one effective method of making a block is to make a supporting frame to hold the mould. you can actually use a cleaned-up square/rectangle peice of plastic sprue glued toa backing sheet of plasticard/perspex as a supporting structure to a mould. an even better approach is to use lego or similar buiding blocks, and make a small "wall" shape to support the moulding block and press the object into it. this really helps minimise the distortion on the edges.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:15 No.14339651
    Thank you.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:20 No.14339695
    I see, thank you! Priming isn't a problem as I always prime before painting, I just worried the primer or paint would eat away at the thing. I wonder if it'd melt though.

    Also, I might try something. People use melted sprue to fill out spots on terrain. I'll try pouring some of that goop into a mould and see if it hardens like a normal GW mini.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:21 No.14339706
    hey..anyone with a finish models?

    curious to see how it looks like
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:21 No.14339717
    Maplin sell something similar - Polymorph. Comes in granules but melts down in water in the same way.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:22 No.14339735
    i tried melting sprue once

    it caught on fire and i never did it again
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:25 No.14339774
    This is the video that spurred the original topic a couple days ago

    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:30 No.14339821
    That's because you set FIRE TO IT, maybe.

    melting sprue is done with plastic glue. Y'know how when you use too much and you wipe it off it sometimes gets onto other parts of the mini and you go WHY IS HIS FACE FUCKING MELTING?!

    Yeah. Some hobbyists put some plastic glue in a small pot, dunk a pile of cut-up sprue and let it sit for a while. The glue melts the sprue and it become like a thick syrup. People use this as filler for terrain and other things.

    Now this shit will reform... and it's grey plastic like GW's shit. So technically, pouring this goop into a mould will have it harden into the model you're copying. Of course this needs actual experimentation. Scripty! I choose you!
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:35 No.14339867
    >use plastic glue to melt sprues
    >any more than a bead of plastic glue
    >shit emits made fumes

    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)13:38 No.14339906
    Hey I never said it was safe but I'd gladly sacrifice a few braincells for my plastic crack. Hell with this it actually turns into a real drug addiction, brainmelt included!
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:01 No.14340076
    Then you are a retard and should get out the hobby. Poisonous fumes are not to be fucked with and risking your life just to save a few dollars on toy soldiers is warning signs you should get professional help.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)14:01 No.14340082
    What is the window of opportunity for using that? 2 mins? 5? 10? It sounds like it'll harden into a shapeless blob in moments.
    Also, wouldn't such a mess stick to everything inclusing the Omorashimaru?

    Aside from those concerns, what sort of glue should I use? I doubt the GW shit is optimal for it.
    >> kingfucknutthe1st Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:02 No.14340094
    Ok so I made a 2 part mould, and I've put some grey stuff in just have to wait until it sets and I'll post results.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:03 No.14340097
    NO. I am NOT going to read about your asphyxiation in the Darwin Awards - you stay away from chemical melting of sprue.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:03 No.14340103

    Makes a good reason to buy a respirator and goggles...or a full gasmask.

    Other than just because you want to be a cyberpunk soldier.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:05 No.14340118

    Well all poly cement type plastic glue works by melting... so yeah just find something thats a lot cheaper than GWs but works the same.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)14:07 No.14340131
    Don't worry brah I have protective gear. And open air space to do it in.
    I do have a gasmask, I just need a filter for it.
    Or maybe I'll just buy a respirator and not rely on second hand military gear.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:07 No.14340138
    I have no idea on the hardening, it's like something like 10 mins though (the plastic needs to melt together and harden as if you're gluing normally).

    As for glue, Revell Contacta master race!

    >Implying I wouldn't do this outside or wearing a cool gas mask anyways.

    Chill out bro, we're just brainstorming to find out more properties of this new miracle mould shit. 'Tis beneficial to /tg/ and so we must SCIENCE this bitch up.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:10 No.14340163

    I dunno man, being in the darwin awards book would be kind of cool.
    >> Waffles 03/23/11(Wed)14:14 No.14340192
    Broski, there's some rather common hobby plastic glue here in Finalnd. Rewell is the brand name and they put out cheap models and such. They also sell colours for paiting models, but I wouldn't recommend them ever. Metal pots are hard to open.
    >> Waffles 03/23/11(Wed)14:16 No.14340211
    On a side note: I actaully like using plastic glue for models if it's for places that will never see the colour of paint EVER. Like the insides of Crisis Suits for Tau. Slap some Rewell in there and it'll be sturdy as hell.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:27 No.14340289
    So once you have the mold set with Wonder-O here, what would you suggest using as the actual model material itself?

    I've heard resin and silicon of course, or greenstuff. In the last thread, someone suggested Elmer's Glue, and I thought of giving it a try. Thoughts?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:27 No.14340294
    who needs greenstuff when you can use some plastic glue to melt the seems together and smooth it over.
    >> Waffles 03/23/11(Wed)14:31 No.14340332
    You only need to smooth it out if you used too much. Moderation.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:35 No.14340361
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    found this stuff to cast the parts with. Smooth-Cast White Liquid Plastic. Cures in 10min. looks like it should work pretty good

    >> Waffles 03/23/11(Wed)14:36 No.14340372
    Aye, the heug ass picture that the Casting Tutorial states that Smooth-Cast can be good but it's all personal preferance and what the mold is made of.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)14:59 No.14340595
    Except that has an exothermic reaction, meaning it gives off heat. Which could disfigure the mold.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:02 No.14340629
    Just because it gives off heat doesn't mean it generates ENOUGH heat to disfigure the mould.

    Resin and fucking THERMITE both "give off heat" but it's a pretty huge difference bro. Let us experiment first. Deeds not Words etc etc
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)15:08 No.14340686
    Keeping a mold next to the bowl of hot water disfigured it slightly, if that is any indication one way or the other.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:11 No.14340709
    .... Ok then THAT might be an issue. Though hot water might still give off far more heat.

    However what's stopping you from pouring the resin and keeping the mould in the fridge? Or won't the resin cure then? Sorry, I cannot unto physics to save my life.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:19 No.14340791

    Asking again about Elmer's Glue. Any thoughts?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:28 No.14340875
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    Okay so this was my first attempt ever at moulding or anything, i made a two part mould using vaseline to stop it sticking together
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:29 No.14340887
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    Using greystuff(still trying to get the right consistency) here are the results

    sorry for the shitty photos only have a cam phone at the moment
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:29 No.14340894
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    last one, will need some trimming to get rid of the mould lines but i'm pretty happy with the result for my first try
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:33 No.14340919
    Vaselina was a smart choice, though according to user reports you should also be able to cover a model in the mold then cut it open with an exacto knife.

    From what I can make out, the mold and product came out rather well. Loss of signficant detail cannot be noticed, it actually picks up quite alot.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:37 No.14340953

    The majority of the detail is there, the only things wrong with it are down to human error, taking it out too soon for example. I need to be more patient, i lost the propellors.

    Is it just me or is Gale force 9 grey stuff terrible? I bought it recently after working with PROcreate putty a while back and finding it to be excellent.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:45 No.14341041
    Elmer's Glue will take about 24 hours to cure, so it won't be the quick 10 minute job of resin, but it should be somewhat flexible and solid and it comes with a handy-dandy injector in the bottle.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:47 No.14341052

    The biggest thing I was thinking is not of time, but expense. A good resin set can be pretty expensive, while a $5 bottle of Elmer's is... well... not.

    What about the piece though? After a full set, will it be crappy, brittle, malleable, or a good rubber set?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:49 No.14341078
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    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:51 No.14341097
    Not this poster but I want to know as well. I'm mostly worried about the heat as we get awful summer where I live. I'm afraid of spending the time to paint an entire army of World Eaters only to have them resemble an army of Death Guard after a few days...
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:51 No.14341106
    You love transgenders?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)15:55 No.14341129
    /tg/ swells your belly with blood?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)16:07 No.14341243

    PVA glue, when fully set, is as hard and rigid as any plastic or resin. However, when it is dropped, it will bounce rather than shatter, because it retains some elasticity. To do an experiment, pour some elmers into a ziplock baggie. Then leave it for a day and see how it feels.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)16:09 No.14341279
    whys everyone always hatin on cali?
    >> 03/23/11(Wed)16:57 No.14341758
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)17:08 No.14341836
    >If the water cools down, the Oppaimaru won't soften properly.
    >the Oppaimaru won't soften
    Thanks for making me smile, OP.
    >> Slaaneshi Whore lord 03/23/11(Wed)18:04 No.14342096
    whelp I just ordered some of this myself, I suppose when it gets here I will test it out on a metal figure first, then an IG, then a goblin if I don't loose too much detail....anyway it loks interesting I really hope I can make a full platoon of Escher girls for my traitor guard.

    might even do it to some of the new troll models if it works well enough....though it might be easier to buy them.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)18:37 No.14342325
    silly question from ukfag is Elmers glue just wood glue/pva or something different?

    also are there things that cast well/poorly?
    thinking specifically of the traditional GW legs-really-far-apart style...
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)18:38 No.14342346
    if the oyumaru has to be at 150degrees to become maleable, how can one handle it enough to be shaped? surely would burn hands
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/23/11(Wed)18:44 No.14342409
    150? Nah, more like 80. It'll be warm but it won't burn you.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)18:49 No.14342453
    Yeah it's just a popular brand of PVA
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)18:51 No.14342467
    I just use freshly boiled water from an electric kettle, so yeah around 80/90 and the material itself doesn't need to get that hot, it's just the fastest way to make it malleable.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)19:04 No.14342559

    Wat. How long did you have it in the microwave? I assume the power setting was on high.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)20:09 No.14342874
    Mythbusters already disproved this one.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)20:14 No.14342904

    I boil water in the microwave all the time. Hell, when you cook food in the microwave, they tend not to assplode either.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)20:56 No.14343301
    just curious:
    If the resin/clear plastic stuff gives off heat, what would happen if you put the mold in the freezer while it cured?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)21:06 No.14343431
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    What is that red-stuff you use for the model actual???
    >> Aethelred Metatron 03/23/11(Wed)21:24 No.14343686
    4 minutes isn't gonna cause that. Maybe 10-30 minutes, but 4 minutes is going to make the water so hot the moment you put something in the water(after you take it out of the microwave, mind you), the water will just boil the fuck over because its so hot.
    >> Aethelred Metatron 03/23/11(Wed)21:25 No.14343712
    Anyway, has anyone tried resin yet?
    >> Pathfinderguy 03/23/11(Wed)21:37 No.14343893

    Isn't that just a marine from Space Hulk?
    >> Hank Pym !!A0/lWspso1i 03/23/11(Wed)21:39 No.14343920
    It is. Post-Ragin' Mephiston, actually.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)21:41 No.14343947
    My freshman science teacher actually had something like that happen to him. He had burns on one of his hands because he boiled water in Tupperware or something.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)21:44 No.14343991
    Mythbuster disproves things by doing a few tests.

    Key word FEW. If this happens 1 out of 10,000 times it's enough to pop up rarely, but still pop up. They're good at faking studies, they don't have the numbers to back up anything beyond proving something can happen which is decently easy compared to disproving that it can't.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)21:51 No.14344110
         File1300931477.gif-(254 KB, 250x227, 1252213033371.gif)
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    The CMON site sells this stuff as "instant mold" for $12.99 for 6 sticks as well:

    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)22:16 No.14344468
    Woohoo! 200% markup FTW!
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)22:43 No.14344862

    same thing. i have it. it's amazing. just need more green stuff :(
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)22:47 No.14344912
    The chemical reaction involved in resin curing will probably slow down when you cool it, and may very well stop entirely once things get cold enough. Whether it takes a cool day or liquid helium to make a noticeable difference in the curing speed is another question though...

    Also, polymers (like the resin, or the mould) are generally very poor thermal conductors. So even if you keep things somewhere cold (like the freezer) the temperature inside may still build up quite a bit, depending on the thickness of things, how much heat the resin releases, etc.

    In short, the fridge might work, but it's not guaranteed.
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)23:05 No.14345118
    i've been thinking of using some sort of liquid to fill the molds with. has anyone tested this with any success? PVA glue doesnt work because it doesn't dry well enough. that smooth-cast looked promising but has anyone experienced it first hand?
    >> Anonymous 03/23/11(Wed)23:09 No.14345161

    Looks like 3 sticks.
    >> Chronicler 03/23/11(Wed)23:58 No.14345683
    I know this was posted in the last Onimusha 3: Demon Siege thread, but this video is great. It details a fairly easy method of creating a two-part rubber mold. Obviously I've not had a chance to try it yet, but it seems like a sound concept.

    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)06:19 No.14348507
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    Here are some GS parts, with varying degrees of derp.
    Overall, it seems fine as long as you aren't pants on head retarded like me and actually think about what you are doing.

    Can anyone give any additional info on the molten sprue / PVA options?
    They sound like they would stick to the mold rather hard and the PVA sounds like it wouldn't solidify properly, leaving a soft core.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)06:50 No.14348599
    Dude who made the origional oyumaru thead here.
    you need to press the green stuff in harder into the molds. i use the end of a chopstick dipped in water.
    press it in along the sides and into the deeper parts of the molds for more sharp details.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)07:02 No.14348643
    Figured as much. I'll try making chunkier molds for the next batch too, so they won't bend around when I shove shit in them. Maybe I'll try those lego frame ideas too.

    Still waiting for some info on the sprue melting idea. It sounds fine but at the same time it sounds like it'll destroy everything it touches.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:22 No.14348702
    >>14348643 It sounds fine but at the same time it sounds like it'll destroy everything it touches.

    You could probably check the stickiness (and the effectiveness of any possible release agent) simply by dropping some plastic cement onto the onsokumaru block, no need to test that bit in a painstakingly prepared mold.

    Acetone should work to dissolve the plastic, and may be cheaper than plastic cement. You'll need to add mroe plastic of course, but I have a feeling most of us here have no shortage of old sprues to use. Otherwise go scavenging for expanded polystyrene packaging materiel.

    As for the fumes, acetone is relatively kind as far as these things go, so just don't huff the stuff. The guys at the polymer lab at the local university happily run around in an atmosphere which smells like you should be careful about sparks or open flame, and they didn't seem any worse off than any other engineering science post-grads, though admittedly that's not saying much.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:29 No.14348741

    You there! Scriptarius!

    Use the Oyumaru with Precious Metal Clay.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)07:33 No.14348754
    Acetone eh?
    Hmm, that could be worth a shot. I'll probably need lots of it though, since I use it for stripping paint and I've never seen anything melt.
    Also, while I can see how the glue-mix would harden into good grey plastic again, my awesome phoned in high school chemistry knowledge isn't really giving me a clear mental image of how the acetone-mix would solidify again.
    Good idea on dropping glue on some oyumary though.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:34 No.14348760

    Oh wowie sauce yes.
    It doesn't even need to be precious metal-- the brass clay is cheap and easy to fuse. (Yes, fuse.)
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)07:37 No.14348774
    Uh... what exactly are we hoping to get out of this?
    Golden minis?
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:38 No.14348775

    Some plastics dissolved in acetone reform when the acetone evaporates. It is not likely to work well in an enclosed mold.

    It will also most likely dissolve the oyumaru.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:39 No.14348784

    You could cheaply make metal minis. Weighty. Stable.

    For humor, you could use actual gold for details and insignia, if you like.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:43 No.14348799
    I'm somewhat surprised that I haven't seen much gold-leafing used on minis, too. You can get a lot for not much money.

    Sanguinus in Florentine Gold!
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:44 No.14348804
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    for getting green stuff into cracks and crevices what about building some kind of machine? some kind of piston you could push to apply pressure to the gs and force it into the mold.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)07:48 No.14348819
    Embedding the oyumaru mold removably into a semi-firm plastic (plasticine,) then affixing a seal and pistoning might work.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)08:12 No.14348914
    >>14348754 while I can see how the glue-mix would harden into good grey plastic again, my awesome phoned in high school chemistry knowledge isn't really giving me a clear mental image of how the acetone-mix would solidify again.

    Plastic cement is nothing more than plastic dissolved in an organic cement (dunno if it's acetone specifically or something similar, might vary with the brand), so the two should solidify in pretty much exactly the same way.

    >>14348775 It is not likely to work well in an enclosed mold.
    It takes more time, but on the other hand, anything that isn't curing by chemical reaction would probably take longer in a mould than out in the open.

    Testing how the mould material stands up to acetone before casting with a small sacrificial piece is probably a good idea though.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)08:47 No.14349054
    Well I managed to dig up a bottle of nail polish remover, I'll give it a test run after I'm done mailing these job applications.
    It probably won't work but then at least I'll know I need stronger stuff.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:17 No.14350782
    so what is the consensus on the Smooth-Cast stuff giving off enough heat to melt the mould?

    it looks really good if it works, anywhere to find it in UK or ebay? can't find any
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:21 No.14350822


    found this, reckon it'l be the same?
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:27 No.14350858
    >>14343991 beyond proving something can >>happen which is decently easy compared to >>disproving that it can't.
    Actually, disproving that something cannot happen is exactly the same as proving that it can happen.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:33 No.14350907
    Chemist here. Two things:

    For the people talking about stuff sticking to the inside of a mould, you should line the moulds with silicone grease. You can get it in aerosols as "mould release agent".

    As for dissolving sprue in glue or other solvents: I'm not convinced that it will harden again. Melting it by gentle application of heat would seem to be a better solution, although it'd be hard to do without burning it.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:41 No.14350974
    >>14350907 I'm not convinced that it will harden again.

    There wouldn't be much point to plastic cement if it didn't.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:44 No.14351014

    With poly cement you've got two solid surfaces pressed together, and a thin layer of dissolved plastic sandwiched between them. I could believe that the glue diffuses into the plastic and causes the liquid to re-solidify, but you'd need a lot of evaporation of solvent to re-solidify a big glob of the stuff. I expect that would lead to significant shrinkage.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:45 No.14351017
    But even plastic cement alone hardens eventually. I have an old bottle in my toolbox that's gone solid.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:46 No.14351025
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:50 No.14351053
    are any models particularly easy or difficult to cast?

    i'm assuming the older, less-dynamic games workshop stuff would be easier?
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:55 No.14351100
    Shrinkage is possible, and the geometry will of course make for longer timeframes, but that won't stop it from hardening.

    Eh, yes?
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)13:59 No.14351127
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    >The circle of my life is complete.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)14:32 No.14351416
    this thread is too awesome to die
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)14:51 No.14351582

    What makes it harden?
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)15:34 No.14352028
    > bragen umax
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)16:41 No.14352645
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    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)16:52 No.14352727
    Is this stuff sold in the US, or am I going to need to buy it next time I'm in Japan and hope I can bring it back through customs?

    It looks balls easy to do. I could make some meltagun arms rather than having to put up with herp derp one meltagun arm per Cadian Command Squad.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)18:27 No.14353586
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    You there! Chemist! I like your style. Continue! : )
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)18:31 No.14353626
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    Also, you there! Scriptarius!
    Marvel's lawyers are on the phone politely asking you not to sue them. Continue!
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)18:35 No.14353657
    The solvent buggering off into the atmosphere. The more stuff it has to dance through to get to open air, the longer it'll take, but unless you seal things up entirely it will happen in the end.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)18:42 No.14353728
    No, they disproved it with TAP water. Pure H20 will explode if you touch it after its been microwaved past the boiling point.
    I've seen it happen, I've done it myself.
    Mythbusters is fun, but not scientific. It does promote the scientific method, but does not rigorously follow it.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)18:50 No.14353807
    There HAS to be a non-Japanese equivelent of this stuff. I refuse to believe this shit is a proprietary compound that only the Omurmaru people sell.

    I mean the CMON guy by managed to find a cheap supply to repackage and sell at a markup like GW does with greenstuff. The same way it's possible to cheap non-GW greenstuff there must be a way to get cheap generic what ever this stuff is in bulk.

    Polymorph seems to display similar qualities to this stuff.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)18:58 No.14353873
    they disproved it with tap/normal water then they proved that it can happen with distilled water because there's no boiling points/impurity's in it. and seriously who uses distilled water for modeling/drinking/whatever. if you are that concerned about it stick some salt or a spoon in it before hand.
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)19:41 No.14354265
    Anyone remember what the URL is for Scripty's blog?
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)22:03 No.14355779
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)22:05 No.14355801
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)22:10 No.14355861
    Yeah, uh...
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/24/11(Thu)22:12 No.14355890
    The more brickish, the easier.
    For opposite extremes, I'd say Creed is at the easy end and a Horror would be at the hard end.
    >> τιτυs !titusGG64g 03/24/11(Thu)22:18 No.14355957
    >> Anonymous 03/24/11(Thu)23:13 No.14356561
    Anyone know of a physical store in the US where you could buy this? (Without going to Chinatown/Asiantown)
    >> Anonymous 03/25/11(Fri)01:24 No.14358049

    Jo-Ann's and Michael's don't carry it.
    >> Fabricator-General Scriptarius 03/25/11(Fri)07:53 No.14360914
    I don't really know anything about American chains, but I got mine from a art/jewelry supply store.
    >> Anonymous 03/25/11(Fri)08:18 No.14361038
    ht_2569wt_1026 as a fellow ausfag this is what I'm planning to buy to start experimenting with.
    Also I get my GS from Gamingdragon.com.au $24 for 36 inches with about $5 postage tacked on.
    >> dice2 03/25/11(Fri)08:21 No.14361045
    Thanks! And yeah, I use gaming dragon for my GS too.

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