the key here is to slowly spread the paint so it doesn't become transparent, you're not really painting it on, more like gently guiding it around

>>5845373
So...wait...what you're saying is that to paint, you put blobs of watered down paint onto the model and then let them dry and do it again?

Isn't that kind of...the opposite of painting?

>>5845394
That's the key to getting a good, solid coat of a single color.

Water paint down to milk consistency.
Apply to model, spread until it's transparent.
Let dry, repeat.

And I'm not the OP or the author of the images, it's just how you get a good coat of a color without visible brushstrokes or obscuring details.

>>5845491
This. Drybrushing is of the devil

I've never understood the hate for drybrushing highlights. It's easier and doesn't take as fucking long.

Also, what do you use to water down your paints? Is water sufficient or do I need paint thinner?

>>5845537
Water is fine. Drybrushing is only good if you follow it by using the steps taken in the first picture. Also, washes.

>>5845532
The best part is, I see people saying all the time "BUT TEH GW SAYS TO USE IT, SO ITS MUSTS BE GOOD."

Fucking no. No one with a shred of skill drybrushes anything except terrain. It's a stupid technique embraced by shitty painters to justify not having to put any effort into their models.

>>5845537
Because people who drybrush don't paint to look good, they paint to play with painted models. It is shit BECAUSE it takes less time, thus less effort was applied, thus less practice, thus STOP FUCKING DRYBRUSHING IF YOU WANT YOUR MODELS TO LOOK HALF DECENT.

How do I use washes effectively? I've tried it a handful of times but always managed to fuck it up royally and made my imperial guard look like they just got back from vacationing in Hawaii.

>>5845537
My personal favorite is future floor polish or if you dont have the money/ cant find it, orange glow wood floor polish. It enhances the flow without making it transparent, so less coats with greater control.

>>5845537
depends how arsed you are. I do what i call "gaming standard". Base coat, wash, mid tone, high light. Because i hate painting and it takes about 10-15 minutes a model when i'm being average.

>>5845559
>>5845568
Sorry there's a method to get easy looking models for less effort.

Bet you guys hate dipping too.

>>5845570
Good washes are used in moderation. Things like adding brown to the cracks/recesses of bone, darkening up small, hidden areas, and the like. People who use them badly just wash whole models and use it in place of blending in darker colors, even though it leaves harsh borders and ugly lines.

>>5845568
>>5845559
FUCKING AMATEURS TRYING TO PLAY OUR SRSBSNS GAMES FUCKERS NEED TO WORK AND SWEAT BLOOD AND LOSE FORTY POUNDS TO PLAY A PROPER GAME

YOU AREN'T WORTHY OF PLAYING MY GAME BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T WORK AS HARD AS I DID FOR IT

>>5845537
Its hated because its easy and doesn't look as good as much more advanced techniques.

Its a functional technique that is too easily dismissed by internet toughguy painters who claim they're Slayer Sword quality without ever showing anybody their models.

>>5845596
0/10, would not read again.

>>5845570
basecoat the whole model with colors that work together in their pallate, such as, for guard, tan/ khaki/ olive green/ grey/ black. NOTHING ELSE. DONT TRY TO ADD SOME *CONTRAST* OR *FLAVOR* stick to a pallate, then use a wash (for guard devlan mud/ badab black) to bring out the deatail, go back and highlight.

ITT: Lot's of "I never, ever want to get better at painting."

>>5845568
There are a few situations where drybrushing produces good models, but highlighting power armor isn't it.

Fur, imperial eagles, terminator honors, etc -- small areas of high detail -- work well drybrushed, but you need to be doing multiple layers of it.

>>5845558

Well as we discussed last night, drybrushing is fine for models that have, say clothes and shit but shite for flat panel style models (like my black armored SM's)

I know it works awesome on normal models from my work in 1/35.

This model has drybrush everything from a base color, even the snow parka was started from a gray and drybrushed through 20+ stages of shade to get the white. The skin is about 8-9 stages. My dad is fucking awesome at this shit, he has some Tau but never finished 'em and we never played. I should get him to take pictures of them so I can post 'em.

>>5845617
>fucking no

I loled

Why do you give a shit how someone else paints his models? Painting is a personal individual hobby.

>>5845559
This model took me around an hour, including the stikkbomba gretchin I glued on it.

I drybrushed the highlights.

Everyone that sees it says it looks awesome. Opinion?

>>5845643
>ITT elitism

Vallejos come pre-thinned ;3

>>5845596
>>5845600
>>5845608
People who put time and effort into our models don't like it when someone tells us, you could just drybrush that. I DONT FUCKING WANT TO DRYBRUSH. Drybrushing is OKAY for tabletob quality models, but I am trying to learn to paint better, I wouldn't say I'm great, but I'm definitely not shit, plus I'm young and the slayer sword winners are usually 25-35 on average, so I still have time to learn.

>>5845673
And the other side.

>>5845673
My opinion is get a bigger god damned picture.

Other than that, looks generic and flat. No highlights, no blending, no shadows, just some flat Red and drybrushed Boltgun metal.

>>5845559
Nah, drybrushing is just as legitimate method as any other...when used correctly. drybrushing the fuck out of entire model is NOT corret method of application. It looks okay on any rough surface though, like fur or...well, models base.

>>5845568
>>5845559

drybrushing is less time consuming? what?

Fuck, that's why I played necron and tau, just prime 'em, spray 'em, and paint some other part of them another color so they're legal.

I played warhammer to PLAY WARHAMMER, if I wanted to paint as a hobby I'd get a fucking easel.

>>5845673
A good conversion != a good model, small picture and shit quality dont help either.

>>5845707
How do you figure the boltgun is drybrushed?

Jesus Christ, are you just saying shit to make yourself feel better?

>>5845680
Conversely, people who use drybrushing don't need to hear you going BUT U DIDNT PAINT IT PROPLY YU SUCK

>>5845678
Wut? Vallejo paint is thicker than GW, it has the most pigment out of any model paint on the market.

Vallejo is for squeezing into a pallet, thats why it has a dropper bottle. You're not supposed to put it straight on the brush.

>>5845673
>>5845692
looks good man :)

>>5845714
>Artists only paint using one medium ever, aherf aderf

>>5845669

Well we shouldn't get opinionated but it never hurts to share what we know.

My dad taught me how to paint and everything and at first I rolled like him, but then I started experimenting with new techniques and stuff and made my own style. He tries new shit all the time.

If you want to go far, at least try different things and pick and choose what you like.

>>5845718
>320x240

>>5845741
Webcam. My normal camera's on the fritz.

>>5845570

Make kahuna company!

>>5845673
>>5845692
It's nota good quality photo but even still the paintjobs looks awful. I certainly wouldn't be soliciting complements for it if I was you.

>>5845673
>took me an hour

I HATE YOU

>>5845767
How about some actual criticism instead of SHIT SUCKS FAGGOT?

>>5845669
>Why do you give a shit how someone else paints his models? Painting is a personal individual hobby.

When someone asks for advice/opinion/critique, I'm going to tell them what I think. If you can't take being broken down and told your shit sucks, DON'T FUCKING ASK FOR PEOPLE'S OPINIONS.

God damn, you people need to get some thicker skin.

>>5845726

Well, i uploaded a guardsman Stumpy picture for a reason, sir!

Also, a question:

What's a good way of not mixing previous paints with new ones when switching colours? Washing in water doesnt clean the brush totally, and alcohol leaves crumbs of it still on the hair...

Is the only solution multiple, clean brushes for each colour?

>>5845774
Give me a decent sized picture, and I'll tell you everything that can be done better.

But honestly, you're awfully defensive about it. It's like you only want the positive compliments, and need to make excuses/attack anyone who says it sucks.

>>5845783
I usually just rub it a bit in some paper towel. Not really sure what the impact on the bristles is on it but the brush is still good...

>>5845738
I'm not saying that, what I'm saying was I spent a lot of money to get into a hobby with my old friends so we'd have something to do. I think I played maybe a total of 5 games with my two armies because no one wanted to play, they just wanted to paint. Had I known this, I never would have started.

It's a similar story at my lgs, all the warhammer "players" are upstairs painting while the warhammer tables get used for everything OTHER than it. shit, last time I was there, there was a group of people playing 3 headed giant at a warhammer table.

>>5845800

I, too, wipe them in paper tissues. Still, paint remains on the brush.

>>5845595
Honestly, I have the worst luck with washes. They never seem to find their way into the seams, and pool all over the place, ruining detail and causing splotchyness.

I know /tg/ hates drybrushing, but I think it's because many players do a Basecoat-Drybrush-details-done system. Myself, I drybrushed the shit out of my first army (mainly because the how-to book said so), but I did so with many hues. For me it went

Primer, Reallydarkbasecoat, Drybrush lowtone (Everywhere), Drybrush midtone (easily reached), Drybrush hightone (Topmost surfaces), Drybrush Highlights (very light).

Though yes, it does look chalky, it was a happy experiment, as I was going for an ash-grey color, and the texture from drybrushing really accented that, while giving the miniatures a grittier look that made them look warn. After a few metallic details and jewling, I was really pleased with the end product. Sure, it wasn't pro, but neither was I. I'm pretty sure that I ended up spending the same amount of time the average "Paint your thins" fatguy does.

Tried recently using other fatguy techniques with some testbed minis... Some parts are better than others, I'm probably going to start abandoning the wash part. Never turns out well, and soap isn't really helping it.

>>5845783
I posted then looked at the picture. You trolled me good.

>>5845801
I regularly play 40k and Apoc games, and still find time to sit down and paint my models to a standard that isn't sinking to 'lol tabletop quality'.

PROTIP: Painting well is hard. It takes time. We all know this. But you know what? When you PRACTICE painting well, instead of practicing painting badly, YOU GET BETTER, AND IT GETS FASTER.

You people are just too scared of putting in the work, that you use your shitty crutch techniques as a way of practicing painting shitty models really quickly.

Ok, so...I really don't understand the hate for drybrushing, at all.

Here is a Grey Knight Terminator I painted in 40 minutes, details and all.

I mostly drybrushed, then did the gold, then the personal heraldry. I don't think it looks TOO bad.

Thoughts, /tg/?

>>5845780
>If you can't take being broken down and told your shit sucks, DON'T FUCKING PICK UP A PAINTBRUSH.

a lot of my art major ex-gf's needed to learn this.

>God damn, you people need to get some thicker skin.

hear hear, people don't know how to cope anymore.

I've been painting with flat colors mostly, since I'm not in the mood for going for highlights and or shadows.

Not enough paint to get that shit right.

>>5845838
It looks fine, because it isn't half-unpainted with unprimed shit showing.

>>5845824

I myself fell for it though, when i first bought vallejos and made a thread about advice.

It was so heavy it wouldnt even stay on the fucking brush.
Godlike paint when thinned properly though. AND cheaper AND in larger vials AND doesnt dry up.

Awesome man, just awesome

My rule of thumb for painting:

If you think it looks good, screw what everybody else thinks.

>>5845828
The hell?

I agree with >>5845850

>>5845838
Looking pretty Boltgun-Metal-Brushed-Over-Black, bro. Looks like crap.

>>5845828
Honestly? I think this is what you faggots tell yourself to make up for the fact you such at suck an easy game.

>>5845617
Someone explain this image; his drawing isn't exactly clear.

Also how the hell do I do anything BUT drybrush on Orks?

>>5845881
Fair enough.

Show me something you painted.

>>5845887
...wow

suck at such.

Dunno how the fuck I reversed that.

>>5845881
I think it looks fine. Jesus, the 40k painting community's as bad as /v/; if something's not a fucking masterpiece it doesn't mean it sucks.

>>5845870
Are you using modelcolor or gamecolor?

Modelcolor could paint the fucking sun.

>>5845850
>painting thread
>attacking someone's assumed gaming ability

Oh, ad hominem, how I so do love to see you rear your head! Surely the sign of someone not able to take criticism, when they have to attack someone for a subject entirely unrelated to the topic, no?

>>5845838
Looks fine to me.

>>5845889
Add water and paint to pallet.

Don't cover your entire brush in paint, just a little bit.

Don't just smash your brush into the model to get paint everywhere, take your time and vrush it on.

>>5845828
>You people are just too scared of putting in the work, that you use your shitty crutch techniques as a way of practicing painting shitty models really quickly.

it's less that I'm "scared" and more the fact that "I really don't care to learn". I can appreciate other people's work, (my buddy mike has a gorgeous Crimson Fists army), but I've never had artistic aptitude for ANYTHING (I can't even draw a stickman right), and constructing/painting a whole army of bastards has zero appeal to me, let along slaving over a bunch of them wasting paint to actually improve in a skill I have no interest improving.

>>5845913
There's a big difference between "criticism" and "Telling someone their model just plain fucking sucks".

>>5845908
Welcome to the internet bro. Thats how everything is.

Try going to /mu/, /p/, /ic/ and most of the other boards to see exactly the same thing.

>>5845838

Looks like the white line on the shield is a bit thin, could probably use another coat (or more if you PAINT YOUR THINS). Other than that, I got nothing. Looks good t'me.

>>5845920
>>5845867
Thanks. I'm still a bit new to painting and, as such, am learning.

Any advice or constructive criticism?

>>5845910

Most of mine are game colors for, well, plastic minis. Still, they're pretty HEAVY PIGMENTED.

Are game colors good for plastic as well? I mean, there's got to be a reason they named one brand of their paints "MODEL colors"...

>>5845537
water is fine the only real problem is that as you thin down your paint say you have 10 models to work with that mix you have will begin to condense fast thats why some people use A thinner agent Vallejo makes great products for that basica you ,ix 1 part thinner then with water depending on what you wanna do with the paint

>>5845673
>>5845692
Would someone be willing to give me some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism on this guy? Sorry for the shitty quality.

>>5845959
I would, but I'm still new to the painting thing.

Looks good to me, brah.

>>5845956
Periods are your friend, comrade.

>>5845954
Model colours focus more on real-world hues rather than exaggerated bright colours and such. They're best for when you want an exact colour over a flat surface or as a main tone (to shade up and down) for historical accuracy.

Or in 40kfag: they have a lot of cool shades of green and brown!

>>5845838
Wash the motherfucker. Badab black i think, with sepia into the gold to give it depth. and correct the places you went over the line.Seriously, you can use very simple techniques and have nice models, just be NEAT. don't be scared to go back and correct the mess, or don't be lazy and correct it. It makes a world of difference between "decent model" and "fucking mess"

>>5845943
You could start by throwing some shadows in there. Since you went all metallic, it'll be hard to highlight with anything less than a shot of NOT DRYUBRUSHED Chainmail, and then Mithril Silver on the edges of the plates.

Some darker red (Red Gore) on the sides of that crest to make it more than a solid block of red.

Some Babab black dropped into the crevices, and some Ogryn Flesh in the gold to shadow the recessed area.

I would say cover up the black showing through most of the silver, but you probably won't.

>>5845956
I put a few drops of paint on a palette, add a bit of water with my brush, stir it all up, and paint with it. Then when the paint on the palette starts to thicken, I wet my brush slightly before I put it back in the paint.

fur, cloth, hair, etc = shit with some texture. You want to drybrush that, otherwise shit ends up looking a bit too smooth. If this is just about painting space marines, sure NEVER use it. But don't tell a fucker he should use it on the pants of his 40 guardsmen or 120 ork boys.

>>5845984
Thanks, I'll do that.

>>5845959
looks orky to me, I'd maybe add a little(lotta) rust, it looks a tad... shiny.

>>5845954
Game Color is really better for sci-fi/fantasy minis because it comes in a more suitable range of colors and matches the Citadel chart.

Model Color is better paint but its mostly drab real world shades. It would work for IG but not much else unless you wanted drab and GRIMDARK minis with no bold colors.

>>5845959

Picture's small, so it's hard to see much detail to give much advice. But I would say that the surfaces look, well, flat. Unfortunately, I have no advice on fixing that other than thin layers to darken parts of it.

Seeing as it's an Ork vehicle, you might put thin streaks of boltgun metal on areas of red paint to hint that it's worn and scraped away.

A decent wash would also give the metal a more worn and looted feel, I think.

For thinning, most model paint companies have a thinner or acrylic medium which does the job better than water, it thins without reducing the coverage too much.

>>5845988
...?

Why wouldn't I do that last step.

Also, again, thanks for the advice.

>>5845977

WELL FUCK ME THEN, I PAINT RELICTORS
Although i've got nobody to play with ;_;

All in all, we've come to a conclusion:

GAME COLORS ARE AWESOME
MODEL COLORS ARE AWESOME
VALLEJO PAINTS ARE AWESOME IN GENERAL

One final thing, about the brush washing thing, how do YOU wash your brushes efficiently to switch colours?

>>5846004
I don't know, a good high contrast camo scheme could probably work for more than IG

pic related

>>5846008
Yeah, I was planning on roughing him up a bit today.

Also, what wash would you use for making it look rusted?

>>5845959
Clean your mold lines.

Blend in some brighter red for highlighting (lol wuts blending?). Remember, red is best highlighted at it's highest point with a light flesh color, and you can blend up to that with a red/orange mix.

Same for your greens. Damn, dude, highlight something.

Add some tonal range to all you plates, since the whole model is just large areas of flat color, which is really boring.

>>5845444
I never thought of doing things this way, that looks really easy.

Anymore heplful paint images?

>>5846046
...

.....

Half of that is french to me.

Lol what's blending and what is "tonal range"?

>>5846034

Swirl my brush in water and then squeeze it out in layers of paper towel until the paint stops coming out. At that point what's in there is dried or at least not coming out with my other paints.

>>5845444
>>5845491
lol I say to the boys who don't paint minis.

>One final thing, about the brush washing thing, how do YOU wash your brushes efficiently to switch colours?


...I honestly never had the problem-just wash them in water and dip in another colour. You are however fucked if the paint went under the metal band(which i'm sure has it's professional name) or you let it dry on the brush, since there's high danger it will corrupt the new colour. .

>>5846046

Oh. That. Exactly that. Fucking mould lines.

They're your worst enemies. Grab a modeling knife, make them go AWAY

The result will be slightly better overall. The model will actually look as it was intended to be.

>>5846045
1 part devlan mud wash to 3 parts sephia wash, should look like the ol' chestnut ink.

That shit was great for rust.

Just a hint: Drybrushing means DRYbrushing. You wipe the brush until no paint stays on the paper. There's still enough paint to reach the desired effect.

>>5845838
It is table-worthy. You should probably do some lining in with Mithril Silver, ink the gold bits with Chestnut, paint a few things like the Crux Terminatus and the chain with Tin Bitz/Brazen Brass, apply and then clean up a very light blue ink wash to the silver bits, use black ink to carefully write very fine lines of text on the purity seals and scrolls, layer a few shades of blue and white on the blade of the Nemesis Force Weapon to make it stand out as a power weapon (maybe a lightning motif as well?), and of course give it an awesome base. Then you'll be done.

>>5846070
what? Are you saying that the highlighting technique isn't valid or something?

>>5846045

I honestly don't know. Devlan Mud wash looks pretty close to that rusty/dirty tinge, from personal experience. Makes it look really weathered and stained, almost, from dirt. I haven't touched any other washes yet, so I couldn't tell you if there's a better for it.

>>5846066
You have no idea how sad that post made me.

Please, if you want to use beginner techniques and defend them, at least have some concept of advanced painting as a whole, otherwise it just ends up in you looking like an idiot.

Blending is how people who don't drybrush apply highlights. You use thin coats of wet color to blend different shades and tonal ranges into highlights and shadows.

>>5846127
to be honest, i to this day can't apply blending properly-i end up just doing layering rather than wet blend the colours...and no, i don't consider myself "drybrusher".

>>5846109
Devlan Mud is like sweet candy. I probably use it too much, but it's so delicious, that I don't care.

>>5846187

Friend of mine turned me onto it by saying it was 'magical make everything look better juice'. I don't know how true it is, but it's done beautiful things to my Cadians.

>>5846187
Really? I absolutely fucking hate the colour, i only ever use it when i have to wash the base, as the model inevitably ends up looking like it swam in shit
but then again, i don't play orks either.

>>5846212
Exactly. When I finish an ork and feel "you look great, little green friend.... too clean though" I slap that stuff on there and suddenly it feels like a right proppa ork. I'm slowly working on that chipped paint on metal look, haven't worked enough on my vehicles to use it alot though. Right now I only have it on my warboss's metal jaw.

>>5846212

Swam in shit is a pretty good euphemism for crawling through mud. Pretty fitting for Orks, who're filthy, and trench warfare troops. You could also just apply it where you want the shading rather than the whole model, if that's what you're doing. I imagine it would look bad on Marines.

What army are you speaking of, anyway?

GW's washes are crude, coarse, but usually pretty effective. Use them for batch jobs, if you want something more exact make your own washes. I love them so much for doing troopers.

>>5846267
I'll remember that.

Also, what I usually do for scratching up a model is I'll put a little paint on a toothpick and scratch it around on the surface. Either that or I'll drop some paint on it and move it around with the toothpick. Gives it a good worn look.

Is there a better way?

>>5846277
Aye Vallejo Matt and Glaze mediums are wonderful!

For someone who's interested in trying to paint a few models[but not playing wh40k] exactly what equipment should I get?
Vallejo seems to be the guys for paints, other than that i'm stumped though.

>Pretty fitting for Orks, who're filthy, and trench warfare troops.

As i said, if i were playing orks or similiar (skaven must look really good with it i imagine) i'd wash the everloving shit out of the RnF with it, but as it is i'd rather just apply correct colour washes on small areas. it helps i don't play a horde force,so i can actually do it and not get bogged down.

>>5846311
You can't really go wrong by sticking to any of the big manufacturers stuff. Go for whatever your local gaming store or model shop sells, be it Tamiya, Vallejo, Revell, Humbrol, P3, Coat d'Arms or whatever.

For stuff like brushes, glue etc avoid GW, you're paying for the logo.

>>5846295

I mostly just do this for edges. I dip my brush all the way to the metal (YE GODS!) in the basecoat color (Boltgun Metal for me). Scrape as much off the tip as you can back into the pot (ALSO YE GODS!), then wipe the brush in paper towel until the tip is mostly clean. There should be a small quantity left in the bristles towards the metal. Touch that area to the edge in question and swipe it quickly along the surface away from the edge. Repeat as necessary in other areas.

It's looked realistic so far on my minis, though I don't know how well it'll look if you start on a flat surface away from edges. It's also a bit wasteful on the paint.

>>5846262
for the scratched metal, paint the metal red/blue/yellow/whatever and then put down a line of black where you want the scratch. below the black apply a line of boltgun or mithril, then highlight the top of the line
>>5846311
P3 or reaper are god-tier. Slightly more expensive. but ,massively nicer, and they have great color pallates.

>>5846331

Orks don't wash since that eats into their time killing and fighting and drinking and eating and other more orky things.

>>5846345
Not tamiya, please not that glossy ass-paint
>>5846355
Good way to fuck up your brushes.

>>5846331

Yeah, I can imagine it looking kinda crap for anything other than a dirty horde army.

>>5846396

I keep a shit brush specifically for that and washes.

>>5846345
Alright, but what should I actually get?
ie Paints, Brushes, Modeling knives and such?

>>5846361
Wait, so you do a line of black and then another line of boltgun? And what do you mean by highlight?

>>5846412
I'm also wondering about what's needed for conversions.
micro files?

>>5846412

Whatever you can use comfortably. I use a freakin' box cutter to trim the flash and mold lines. Brushes from a hobby store should be fine. Paints...see further up in the thread. Also, I strongly recommend a good desk lamp so you can SEE. Bad lighting is terrifying to paint in.

Biggest thing is that you can do good with bad materials. Just have patience and learn how to use them.

>>5846311
Well, paints(you might want to start with one of the "premade" sets availible-the GW one is okay-ish, P3 sets are too faction specific for a starting guy), snap-blade knife for mould line removal, maybe clippers for removing the models from sprues...brushes, don't bother with expensive ones, buy the cheap ones for now-you'll want 0,1,6 and flat 8 sizes probably. Glue-plastic cement and superglue of some sort. You're done for now. Oh, and a cup or two to clean the brush in,but any old coffe mug will do.
One word of warning-DO NOT BUY THE MODDELING EQUIPMENT FROM GW! Go to your art store, or fucking Obi, just don't buy the GW stuff(well, apart from paints and washes)-it's the same stuff, but slapping a GW sticker rises the price by 100% or more.

Also-i'd start with METAL models. It may seem counter-intuitve,as metals are a bit harder to put together, but you can easily dip the metal model in solvent and recycle it when you both the job, and plastic will melt in most substances.
If you plan to shop online, take a look at companies other than GW for your minis-they are cheaper or better looking often,like Reaper(who has ginormous choice of models, you're sure to find something to your taste)

Fine sand paper is good to finish off mold lines. Metal miniatures can be cleaned with a dremel steel brush.

Fixed it for you OP.

>>5846434
Green Stuff Epoxy
's fucking expensive though.

>>5846412
Paintbrushes in a couple of different sizes, knife, cutting board, tiny file, maybe some very fine finishing paper, acrylic thinners, spray undercoat.

Stuff like cutting boards, files and abrasives can be bought from hardware stores cheaper than model stores.

>>5846461
that is the proper way to highlight, the OP pic was made to show a guy how to fix his drybrushed marine, not start from scratch.

>>5846499
You mean wetbrushed. If you get a shit result like that, your brush wasn't dry.

>>5846412
If you have the money, here's what you should get. Look at Vallejo model colors, P3, Reper paints. See if they have a "full range set" aka all the paints they make, buy it. But a bunch of brushes (5 or 6) different sizes, red sable, kolinsky sable are the best. You will also want a good paint thinner like future floor polish.

Wat if I want to buy warhammer 40k models and don't like painting them?

>>5845678

Which makes them awful if you want to control the thickness yourself.

Buying thinner paint means you are paying for fucking water.

I'd rather buy paint the consistency of a hockey puck and thin it down myself with acetone and water.

>>5846552
pay someone who does to do it for you.

>>5846430
What you do is find where you want the scratch and place a line of black, larger than the scratch you want. Then on top of that, layer a thin line of mettalic paint to represent the metal sticking out. Then on the side of the line of black that would face up, highlight the line (SUPER THIN LINES) the same way you would highlight the armor that is being scratched.

>>5846479
Every now and then you can get meters of the shit on sale, though. I picked up a few yards of the stuff at a local art shop once and it's lasted me for motherfucking years upon years.

>>5846552

If you have younger siblings, they make great slave labor. Have them do all the major work and just do touchups yourself.

BRILLIANT.

>>5846552
You can play them but why wold you want to? People will give you dirty looks, even laugh at you. And the game's not even that great to be playing without liking all the other aspects of it.

>>5846552
Find someone who does? If you're willing to spend more cash, there are plenty of painting services on the web(i have no idea which ones are good though, you'd have to see for yourself). Or a local guy who will do it for cash(there's always one at the LGS)

>>5846552

That's like buying movies just to have something to put under your TV.

It's the models themselves and painting them that gives the satisfaction that makes them even remotely worth the price.

>>5846572
DONT BUY IT WHEN IT IS CALLED GREENSTUFF! KNEADATITE IS THE SAME THING FOR 50% LESS.

or even better
local guy who will do it for the cost of the material.

>>5846589
and on that subject is there any difference between this.

and this.
expect the price?

:O THIS THREAD HAS INSPIRED ME TO START PAINTING MY ARMY ONCE AGAIN!

>>5846430

>>5846653

Funny how earnest discussion motivates oneself, isn't it?

>>5846621

None at all

Any tips for making eyes non-googly? (And just painting faces in general.)

>>5846621
except*
>>5846679
hehe, good to know. (the former one was triple the second ones price)

>>5846689

I do the white eyes then use a permanent marker instead of paint for the irises. A wee bit more control over it.

Other than that, just be very careful and use a very fine brush, I guess.

>>5846689
I got it easy since I have orks, but one time is if you have a droplet of paint on the tip of your tiny brush, it's too much. Dip your brush, one stroke on your palette will get the excess off, then one nice tap of red on those beady eyes.

>>5846701
this. Also, if the eyes are clearly sculpted(that is, the model has something more than just slight depressions in the face for eyes), you can try first painting the whites(use bleached bone rather than skull white,less striking difference from the skin tones), then ink the area around in black/flesh colour, and you'll have less googly whites. after that, what he wrote-use a thin marker to make the black dots.(or vertical lines)

>>5846658
That looks fucking good. Thanks.

How about the sunken in eyes of an astropath?

>>5846799

There's eyes in there? I can't tell. Probably just black in the center, fading to the skin tone around the edges with highlights there.

Gah, all of this just seems like a huge pain in the ass to be honest.

Is there any way to make all of this painting shit not either be supremely confusing or seem so over my head?

archived
http://suptg.thisisnotatrueending.com/archive/5845357

>>5846902

Prime. Do basecoat. Highlight raised areas that would catch light. Touch up basecoat. Add paint scrape. Wash.

I think that covers most of it.

>>5846930
Paint scrape?

>>5846902
dry brush

>>5846930
For primer on plastic do you just do a basecoat or do you use actual primer? If so, what color of primer should you use and can you just use a spray on primer that you would find at walmart?

>>5846937

This >>5846658

Scratches, sorry, not scrape.

>>5846950
Thanks much!

>>5846948

For my Guardsmen, I use Chaos Black primer. The main thing about primer is that it needs to be matte - gloss doesn't hold paint over it worth mentioning. I've been experimenting with different off the shelf sprays to match some of my basecoats and save time, but the black adds inherent shadow to some recesses that's pretty useful.

> YOU DON'T ENJOY THE GAME IN THE SAME WAY I ENJOY THE GAME. THEREFORE, YOU SUCK AND SHOULD DIE.

>>5846966

That's obviously the condensed 'Idiots Guide' (no offense intended), just covering the bases. You'll have to try and grasp more of the thread to really do the best you can and do more of the detailed stuff.

>>5846361

>for the scratched metal, paint the metal red/blue/yellow/whatever and then put down a line of black where you want the scratch. below the black apply a line of boltgun or mithril, then highlight the top of the line

Whatever you do, DON'T FUCKING DO THIS.

It looks worse than any wearing effect ever, it literally looks like an ork came along and painted a black patch and then some metal over it.

Take whatever paint you used for your base metal color (I do tin bitz and then drybrush boltgun metal, it's pretty much the only time I use drybrushing because it gives the metal a worn look very easily and naturally), paint a patch in areas that would wear down like corners or edges, the go back over and highlight it with your secondary metal color.

What /tg/ has taught me:

If/When I get into Warhammer/miniature games in general...don't fucking paint them, because no paint is better than bad paint...


yeah...I'll remember that.

>>5847076
you can always go for the 'stealth' army - all black primered minis

Drybrushing is pretty great for doing hair and furs and certain kinds of cloth. I guess /tg/ only ever paints space marines though.

>>5846930
Okay, and as for actual painting, I take a little bit of the paint and put it on a plastic pallette. Then I thin it out to about milk-consistency with water and follow the guide posted earlier.

Yeah?

Here's my warboss. Again, sorry for the shitty resolution; my regular camera is on the fritz so I'm stuck with a webcam.

Do you see any glaring problems? I think he looks pretty cool thus far.

And I know he looks too clean; that's my next project.

>>5847137

Not the right question to be asking me - I'm not one of the PAINT YOUR THINS elitist folk, I drybrush a lot and don't thin my paints. My methods are hated and I still make it look good.

>>5847117
Dry brushing is never a good idea, even for cloth/hair/furs(space furries?)/ etc.

If you want a quick paintjob, then drybrush. But don't try to justify it as 'good,' ever.

>>5847201

Highlights and a good wash would take care of what little I see that could be improved.

Oh, and the 'chipped paint' look.

>>5847217
Fag.

>>5847232
Now, how would I highlight something like boltgun or those shoulders?

>>5847217
>>(space furries?)
Close, Beasts of Chaos. Also worked quite nicely on my Knights Panther and Knights of the White Wolf's furry mantles.

>>5847258

Usually a lighter metal color, or mixing the base color with what. Highlights on metal should really be considered nothing more than glare from a light source, keep that in mind.

>>5847280

with white*

See guys, drybrushing is the way to go!

Just throwing in my opinion.

Thinned paints is not mandatory for a good model.

I don't thin my paints, I drybrush everything, I wash my models like a bitch.

Yet I still paint my models to GW standard.

And I dont mean the "3 colours, you can play" GW standard.

I mean "Sitting in the rotating display case in the window of GW" standard.

Thinned paints is a crutch and is incredibly over-rated at /tg/, Drybrushing also, can be used very effectivly.

Inb4 "your a troll" just because the little fa/tg/uy paintfags think there is one way to paint and anyone who disagrees is a Double-Troll.

>>5847290
hurrdurramidoinitrite

So if I'm not suppose to ever use drybrushing, then how the hell am I supposed to paint fur?

>>5847294
>thinned paints
>crutch

What.

>>5847239

In the course of this thread I think you've deprived yourself of the ability to rightfuly call someone a fag.

Throughout, you've complained about people telling you your model was bad, demanded constructive criticism but when you received it you made it clear you had no fucking idea what any of it meant. You've been dicking around in the thread fishing for internet compliments while talking smack about things you don't know anything about.

In short, shut the fuck up, tripfag.

>>5847319
apply three-stage highlight to every single strand of hair.
No,really, if you're not painting it for GD competition there is literally nothing wrong with drybrushing rough-textured parts like fur.

One thing I've noticed about this guy.

He shows up, and screams LOL NO DRYBRUSHING EVER.

Now 80% of /tg/ has joined in screaming.

Your a sheep /tg/, a CR 1/4 Sheep. Even a kobold is 1/3.

>>5847336
Actually, I just don't like being giving unconstructive criticism. That means I prefer being told precisely what's wrong with my models as opposed to someone just saying SHIT SUCKS FAGGOT.

>>5847361

Clearly the problem is that you play Orks.

Clearly.

>>5847361
Until you post a real picture- no one can tell you anything about your model.

>>5845617
So you need to water the shit down first?
Fuck, no one told me that. I guess that's how I keep running low on paint so easy...

>>5847331
Because thinned paints is a piss easy way to try and get a semi-decent colour to somthing with no skill at all required, it's a Crutch for noobs who don't know how to paint, other than water down their paint until its piss thin and then do five or six coats of it.

Then they sit back in the chair with a mediocre paint job thinking "Oh man I'm so amazing, I thinned my paints and everything."

>>5847361

>I just don't like being giving unconstructive criticism. That means I prefer being told precisely what's wrong with my models

That is precisely what someone did, and when it happened, you shrugged your shoulders because you didn't understand what the hell they were saying.

Don't ask for something you have no use for.

>>5847294
show us some pics, then.

>>5847392
OK, I don't think you no what crutch means. Fact is, GW paints are too thick to apply straight to the model. Thinning them is not sufficient for painting well, but it sure as hell is necessary.

>>5847390
Not really, some people prefer to thin the paints down and some people don't, dispite what people say there isnt much difference as long as you know how to paint but thinned paints is easier for newbies though.

>>5845491
Is this why my brushes look like shit?

>>5847392
>Because thinned paints is a piss easy way to try and get a semi-decent colour

It is more than trying to get a decent color. Thinning your paint is required to mimic things appropriately when painting your models. Reflective surfaces, such as metals or glass, will never be done with inadequately thinned paint, for example.


>>5847290
>>5847308
ITT: one person doing it right

>>5847459

Brushes do wear down after a while even under the best of care. You might just be due for new ones.

>>5847355
>mentioning CR the most brokenyetworking system ever.
>pointing out kobolds suck according to 3.5e
fuck off troll.

>kobolds cr 1/3
THEY'RE FUCKING MASTER TRAPSMITHS.
TRAPS.
FUCKING TRAPS.
YOU DIE YOU COCKSUCKER.

Does anyone have any tips for painting camo effectively? Got a batch of scouts with camo cloaks to do.

>>5847465
protip, that wasn't achieved with drybrushing

>>5847426
GW paints are too thick to apply to the model If you don't know how to use them, Different people have different tastes when it comes to painting, most people on /tg/ are under the illusion that thinned paints, an incredibly basic way to get a solid colour on, is the ONLY way to do it, and they depend on thinned paints in almost every aspect of their painting. I think thats pretty much a Crutch, but we may have different definitions.

Heck, when painting an Imperial Fist Dreadnaught for the stores planetstrike release I had to thicken my paints just so I could use it how I liked.

>>5847613

Post some examples, because I'm seriously curious as to what your models end up looking like with your techniques.

>>5847606
Problem is a majority of this thread will think it was.

>>5847613

Thinned

>>5847355
I hadn't even noticed when this happened, but yeah, I was certain a few weeks ago /tg/ didn't have a seething hate for drybrushing. Course, maybe that's cause some of /tg/ likes having a fully painted army, instead of a few extra nice show pieces. I will admit I've taken to highlighting more just cause it gives me more control and contrast, but sometimes I want the messy drybrushed look.

>>5847613

Not thinned

>>5847702

I've found that the vaguely mottled look you get from dry brushing a lighter shade onto a dark foundation paint is pretty reminiscent of some camo patterns. I don't leave it that way, but I've considered it with a few pieces.

>>5847707
Miniature
>>5847693
Statue

I think I'm going to start playing statue wargames now!

>>5847745

You can use your house's entire floorplan as terrain!

>>5847759
You deploy in the backyard, I'll deploy in the front! The toilet and the washing machine are objectives!

>>5847772

I call BS on that! My HWTs don't have LoS to ANYTHING.

No one actually plays wh40k. There's only painters.
GW just had a lot of drab colors sitting around and decided to refluff the game to GRIMDARK to get that boring stuff sold.

>>5847745
They're both miniatures. They're both painted. Why did you post again?

>>5847775
Well, if you got a prob with that, I got a problem with where your car is parked. I was going to park my Grand Am.... er, Battlewagon there.

>>5847802

No Fuck You, my VW Rabbit is proxying my Baneblade.

>>5847787
one of them is about 10 times larger than the other,. 1/15 scale and 1/112 scale.

>>5847647
Not my latest models, but some Terminators done a while ago, Red isnt the best example since it was already pretty thin, but no paints were thinned in the making of these models.

Don't have any other pics up this close so yeah, I have another pic of a Dreadnaught side on but its kind of bad compared to some of my other stuff.

These guys I did Mech red, Red gore, a Drybrush of Blood Red all over, A second drybrush over general "raised" areas to catch the light, Went over with a sharp blood red/bleached bone highlight, light Baal red wash all over then a heavier wash towards recesses and the like.

>>5847867

Look fine 'n dandy t'me.

>>5847864

Larger is easier to paint but the scale of your paint job doesn't change for a good painter.

>>5847867
close up please. Can't tell anything

>>5847934
If you read my post, this is about as close up as I have, I've only recently come out of Lurking and dont really visit any of the 40k forums so I don't have any pictures of most my models.

Not close up I mean.