I don't know if this belongs here or if it should be shoved inside of a WIP, but what kind of boards do fa/tg/uy wargamers play on(for 40k, warmahordes, infinity, mercs) ? Do you make your own? How did you make it? Let me know if this should have been posted elsewhere.
As far as I know, this suits /tg/ just fine.Also, we just have a few flat, wooden "boards" or "tables" whatever you want to call them, in different colors. Then we put the board on top of a table and put terrain on top of the board.
>>25550455What kind of terrain? Did you make it yourself? pics?I know for a simple board people use a 4x4 piece of plywood with watered down glue, sand, and brown paint.
Here you go, anon:http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/
>>25550411This is for Infinity.
OP, you should be alright with this topic on /tg/.I tend to make lots of modular stuff rather than fixed diorama quality terrain. While the uber good looking stuff is great for photo shoots, it's a bitch to game on in many cases.
>>25555021I will make the occasional large piece, but even then I don't tend to make it fixed to a game board so that we can play lots of different scenarios.
>>25555038In the same vein, I then to make larger buildings, but I like to be able to disassemble them for storage and transport.
>>25555054I like my buildings large enough that I can easily place larger minis on / inside of (since 40K is supposed to be massive 'Gothic' architecture).
>>25555068Which means you can create some big-ass city fight set ups without going bankrupt or having an entire table dedicated to only one permanent setup.
>>25555087Because when it comes to minis gaming, you can never have 'to many choices'. :)
And now I want to build my own WAAAGH! banner. Even though I don't have where to store it. Or an ork army. Or an ork opponent. Or even a single ork.Do you think making a WAAGH! banner will get me some orks?
>>25555100"Conan, what is best in life?""To paint your miniatures, to see them driven before you on the table, and to hear the lamentation of the cheese-mongers!"
>>25555054>>25555068As someone who always hated the greebling-overload of repeating walls of Cities-of-Death panelled walls, I salute you, sir Anon!
>>25550411>that guy in the back on the rightGET YOUR FAT ASS OFF THE TABLE YOU COCK WRANGLING SHIT RIPPER.
>>25555123As long as they're lamenting because I get to eat all of their cheese.I really like cheese.
>>25555183I can relate. The minis are supposed to be the 'stars' of the show, even if you're using nice terrain too.
>>25555237>As long as they're lamenting because I get to eat all of their cheese.no, but you did get to eat their croissants
>>25555111That's kinda what they're for isn't it?
I've made a couple of buildings that I have yet to finish. Generic ruins and a fuel depot thing.I also still need to get that 6x4 board cut...
>>25555100Those are some really nice looking nids. Are they yours?
>>25555068>>25555087Im jealous now, you rock!Captcha: was ggailed
New guy to diorama's here. While not for gaming (For a gunpla diorama actually), I've read a bunch of guides and gotten my supplies together (Wood board base, styrofoam blocks, paints/primers, gesso, etc) I was wondering if anyone has any tips for a beginner before I jump headfirst into this. I'm trying to make something that looks like the outer surface of a space colony. Got a bunch of reference pics for it to work from.
I make my own
>>25555123anon I've seen this image before. You famous er somtin?
>>25556149Got anymore of these? this looks great.
>>25556149Whoaa... more pls.
>>25556097Are you the guy from /m/ that was complaining about the exorbitant prices of train diorama stuff?Have a random link for inspiration?http://www.ironhands.com/gundam.htm
>>25556510Not him. I was the guy a month ago who made the colony thread on /m/ looking for referance material. I'm aware of the prices of hobby supplies.
>>25556097If you're looking for a 'organic' surface, take a spray bottle and lightly mist your foam with a solvent. Don't go nuts with the spray or you'll eat right through the foam. Once it's totally dry / inert then you can Gesso it with a sponge. After the Gesso dries completely you can spray primer it or whatever else you'd like to do with the surface. Mixing fine sand in with the Gesso can give additional surface texture.
>>25556510>>25556829It is actually cheaper to buy that shit from wargames supply stores than railway specific places. And possibly even cheaper to get on ebay (not second hand). And by that shit I mean stuff like flock, grass, tufts, lichen, the kinda things you can't just pick up in a hardware or craft store. Or maybe you can. Depends on where you are really.
I'm trying to make a board look like this and I have no idea what to do other than using sand and desert colored paints.How do I make cobblestone roads? How do I make buildings? I've heard you can build Middle Eastern looking buildings with spackle spread over normal scenery construction materials like plasticard.
>>25556149What game is that for?Or, at least, the mech.
>>25558727I've been really tempted to turn some Jagged Alliance maps into boards, but I haven't had the drive to really build stuff since I'm pretty shaky with my hands. What game is this from, or just an isometric rendering?
>>25558727Gray paint and a spongeor you could use glue and paint chips
>table and terrain threadCool. Saves me from having to start one myself.I'm in the process of building a table that will be used for, among other things, wargaming.I want to finish the surface with something other than plain plywood, but I'm not sure what material to use.Any suggestions?
>>25560912Am I getting too old, that I recognised it on a first glance?Its second city in Diablo 2
>>25560912It's the town from Act II of Diablo II.
>>25561043You may not pass.Also, Soulstorm maps have some pretty decent ideafodder to choose from.
>>25561058>be rushed through act 2>jerhyn wants to speak to you to allow you to sail to act 3>jerhyn is standing inside the palace behind the palace guard>you may not pass>mfwCaptcha: odiousness zediusfYes, that Zedius is one odious faggot.
>>25561043>>25561054Yes it's the town from Diablo II Act II. Its' name is Lut Gholein
>>25561043Am I getting too nerd, or am I the only one that knows the name of the town? Lut Gholein.>>25561084You have to either:>trigger Jerhyn by completing the Arcane Strangeway>have someone backdoor you to him inside the palaceIf you're being rushed, your sponsor TPs from the dungeon waypoint so you can fill that waypoint, then throws up a TP from lvl1 of the palace.I played Diablo II as a job. God help me.
>>25555111at the very least it should keep you motivated.
>>25558727>How do I make cobblestone roads? How do I make1) make slim tubes of greenstuff2) let it cure 3) cut the tubes in slices4) you now have cobblestoneadded bonus5) glue the cobblestone on a sheat of maleable plastic6) make it so that the end kinda blends in with the begining of your sheet7) prepare oyumaru into a "largish" tube8) heat it up again just so that the outside is moldable9) clench the plastic around the oyumarucongratulations you now have a cobblestone road maker, just apply greenstuff/milliput/your favourite clay/epoxy and roll that fucker through it
>>25560912Oh crap, you too?It'd be so simple too...>>25558727>>25564353Cheaper method:Buy appropriately textured wallpaper (or plasticard if really wanting it to look right), glue to a suitable surface, and have the same effect it with ridiculously less work.Or just draw it onto some foamboard (remove one side of outer paper first) with a pen and that'll etch it in. Not as sturdy though as plasticard or wallpaper.
>>25564509Actually, wait, don't remove a layer of paper first, that'll just cause tears.
Im glad this tread turned out all right. After I finish painting my khador army I would like to make a regular. Terrain WIP among other things. What do you fa/tg/uys think?
>>25565634Do it, I'm trying to make my first building for warmahordes and I'm having problems with some parts
>>25565708Is it a themed build? For what faction? Any sketchs?
>>25565708just a very generic house, i do have a trollkin hut in mind for the future though
>>25566359What have you worked on before? Because houses are actually kinda a complex place to start for scratch building stuff.
for a standard board I was thinking of having a river run in an s-shape through the middle of the board. Prolly 2 inches wide. It would obvi have to permanent unless I don't know something. What do you guys think? What are your experiences playing wargames on a board that features rivers/bodies of water?
>>25566793>for a standard boardyou mean just a plain one piece board?>river run through the middle of the boardwouldn't add permanent pieces to my table. do sections of the river instead that you can combine in different ways and lay on top of the table.>have to permanent unless I don't know something.you also could do tiles with the river in it, so you can rearrange the pieces. that opens up some other possibilities as well. trenches, rivers, plateaus, cliffs or beaches, with water tiles (depending on what you use the table for) and so on and so forth.combined with seperate piece that you place on top you get a lot more variety of your table that way.
>>25566793I have never done any wargaming but how does Space Marines handle rivers, lakes, oceans and any large bodies of water. Do they just walk on the bottom or something?
>>25567370yes. they are SPACE marines, so their armor is watertight.wither the Land Raider or Rhino index astartes article also had stats as to which deepths they were waterproof and a fluff blurb about battles fought on a water planet iirc.
Built some jungle bits recently.
>>25566793Make your board in 1x1' squares. Arrange them how you like for endless variety of tables. 6 for a 2x3 or go ham with 9 for a 3x3. Make some random squares into rivers and bam you can set them up however. Always remember to make a dead end/water fall in case you don't want it running off board, and just keep the run off standard. And by that I mean keep the measurements for where the water runs off a square all the same so you can mi and match.Easiest shit ever.Also insulation foam.
>>25567567FoW scale? That's a really nice job, though I would build up the flock a bit more around the tree bases, I don't know how noticeable they would be. I assume at that small it doesn't much matter.
>>25567713For general 15-20mm use but could also be 28 mm since it's just terrain. The trees are about 90mm tall at the top end, based on 2p pieces for the magneticness and weight. Each tree spot on the jungle base has a strip of magnetic sheet in it for holding them in place, but allowing them to be removed to put models in their place. The next versions will be bulked up more, larger areas with more varied heights. Also going to base up more greenery other than trees to multitask the bases for general dense vegetation.
>>25567977Have you guys made trees before? Or do you guys just buy woodland scenics? How did you make yours?
>>25568228I typically use the woodland scenics kits rather than pre-made.It's pretty easy, though I prefer UHU glue for sticking it all together.
>>25568678wow I just looked them up. 15$ for 20 various height trees... Do
>>25567977>Each tree spot on the jungle base has a strip of magnetic sheet in it for holding them in place, but allowing them to be removed to put models in their place. Ignore my point then, very nice work, rare to see a well done forest, especially at that scale!
>>25568847The palm trees themselves I am pretty sure are cake decorations. I repainted them though, namely to make them look less plastic-y. picked them up from Minibits, good place if you're in the UK to order from.Image here is the formerly incomplete first batch, before greenery added to the base (clump, flock, grass, tufts)
Thinking of basing stuff, if you can afford it, get lots of different types. Especially tufts. Buy Mininatur ones rather than even more expensive repackaged versions. And then stick them to everything, but not in vast amounts.Really bloody useful for making things look more 'right'. Though for a given value of 'right' anyway. I always tend to er on the side of what something might look like in a cartoon. Pick out specific details that tell you what something is, and leave the rest to imagination (so you have space to use it as a gaming piece not a diorama).Also try mixing them with 'clump foliage' to add some bulk. That stuff takes paint really well so you only need to buy one colour if you've got some cheap paints you can water down to re-colour bits. The large bags are more economical than the smaller ones when used this way. More weight per local currency.For easy flowers for that meadow feel, try putting tiny bits of pva glue on the end of some regular grass tufts and then painting them. Not as good as the actual things but definitely decent enough for tabletop use and cheaper.
>>25571538But overall the trick is variation.Go look outside at a patch of field, and you'll see there's quite a bit going on (if it's not continually maintained). Plus when you mix it all up on a base, it saves it from being a surprising amount of bare dirt and plain grass.
I play mordheim using lego.Works amazingly well.
Get yourself over to /po/. There are tons of great papercraft terrain sets out there.
http://thegrinningskull.wordpress.com/2013/06/13/grims-modelling-tips-fake-grass-freebies/Free AstroTurf and it's uses.Kinda handy if you need to an area of long grass that's still usable, or can carve up the samples to stick onto things.
Miniatures are really something I would LOVE to get into, but I really cant paint for shit and I dont have the space for it.
Mainly the GW battlemats.Loads of terrain - signature is magnetising the shit out of everything so it doesn't get broken / can have regiments moved across.
You are all fools for not utilizing the Citadel Realm Of Battle Gameboard tm.
Things to do with cork both tiles and lumps:Arid ground
>>25582255Sides of hills
>>25582275Easy 1' square tiles for urban things
>>25582314More bases for things
>>25582275what is the top of that hill made of?
>>25582352Or hell even just buildings.Buy some cork floor tiles or bark already. You can probably get tiles super cheap somewhere in a discount store if not they're already cheap enough from DIY places. Raw bark is a little harder but hobby places should have some available.You can even get it in various degrees of granulated chunks suitable for making piles of rocks, or large boulders without having to glue actual rocks to things (which quickly adds up in weight if you're doing a rocky board, plus real rocks damage miniatures and other terrain pieces they make come into contact with much easier).This message sponsored by the cork marketing board. Buy some damn cork already, all the bloody wine bottle companies are changing to synthetics.
>>25582432The hill was topped off with caulk/tile adhesive if I remember correctly. Quite a good material, worth getting at least a small bucket of if you're going to work on 'natural' looking terrain bits, or just bulk out bases for stuff a bit. Add some sand or texture paste on top and there's the required texture. Caulk may need mixing with PVA glue to stop shrinkage/cracking as it dries being really awkward though. Both can be got for cheap in DIY stores.
>>25568678>I typically use the woodland scenics kits rather than pre-made.>It's pretty easy, though I prefer UHU glue for sticking it all together.What kind of glue is that? I'm always looking for good adhesives to make terrain with...
>>25582520Some form of synthetic resin apparently. It's a decent all-purpose glue, goes tacky quite fast so I've not had the problem having to hold stuff in place for ages. Smells kinda obnoxious though but it certainly works. A little bit more impact resistant than superglue too I'd say.
A friend built his own table. Has a lip around it to set minis off the battlefield. Terrain is in totes hidden behind the curtains under the table. He has large felt "scrolls" that we roll on top for the basis of whichever type of terrain we use. He's got the green for woodlands/jungles, a light tan one for dessert, a brown one for muddy, a black one for city or ash wastes.His terrain is home-made for the most part. Fake flowers and the like from Hobby Lobby for most of the plant life.
>>25582640Got any close ups of that? His jungle stuff looks interesting, looks like he made some good palm trees.
>>25582640Your friend is one organized hobbyist. I'm always glad to see people treating their interests in such a neat way.
>>25582574Thank you for the info. :)
One of my favorites for 'quick-n-easy' terrain that looks nice is using pink or blue foam to create rock formations.Simply carve it into the shape you desire and then cover it with Gesso. Once the Gesso is dry then I use the Rustoleum 'stone sprays' to create a nice textured surface.
>>25582755Once the stone spray is dry, adding some washes in different colors helps give it a natural and varied look. Adding smaller stones and static grass helps complete the look. I tend to make mine with at least some flat surfaces large enough to easily stand minis on.
>>25582671Best I can do. These are old images that weren't really meant to show off the terrain in detail.The palm trees are either cake decorations or aquarium decorations. Nothing fancy there, really.
>>25582779With a little planning one can easily crank out a large amount of decent looking terrain in a short amount of time.
>>25582798I always find the storage more of a challenge.
>>25582755how do you carve it into such a nice shape?
>>25582924The tall 'rock formations' were actually made with left over foam bits from creating a bunch of impact craters. They're the center circles that were cut out before creating the slopes of the craters. I simply stacked up the bits in pleasing formations and then glued them together. I used a hot-wire cutting tool to make the crators, but a sharp knife with a thin blade or a jeweler's saw would work just as well to create the roughly round pieces.The big rock pile was even easier. It's nothing more than a thick piece of foam carved with a sharp hobby knife.
>>25583351This foam. What is its name? I thought I found it but you could only get a thickness up to 3/4 an inch.
>>25583671extruded polystyrene is what you're looking for outside of brand names. It's used for insulation, so decent hard&homeware stores should have it up to 3 inches thick.
>>25583671It's just standard pink or blue home insulation foam. If you look at a lot of DIY home improvement stores (Lowes, Home Depot), they carry it in thicknesses from 1/2 inch up to 2 inches thick. A 4 x 8 foot sheet of 2" thick foam was something like $25 U.S. last time I purchased one.
>>25583671There are different types of foam. Open cell foam in both large and small cells. Open cell foam is ok for some things (like rock formations, natural items but less so for buildings or hills.)There's also EPS Extruded or Expanded Poly Styrene which is smooth and has no cell structure. This is ideal for hills, buildings, etc. There's also high density EPS. You have to special order it, but searching on high density EPS should yield results. There's also Dylite - a high density foam used in craft items like 'stars' or 'apples' that one sees at craft stores.
>>25584033Are any of these materials toxic or otherwise dangerous in any form? I know with some of those things you need to wear a mask when working with them
>>25582779These are the stones after being cut with a hobby knife. They're made of open cell foam. They were covered with Gesso, sprayed with stone spray, and then finished.
>>25584075>Are any of these materials toxic or otherwise dangerous in any form? I know with some of those things you need to wear a mask when working with themIf you are using a hot-wire cutter you'll want good ventilation (or better yet work out doors) as the fumes from EPS aren't good. Gesso isn't toxic unless you bath in the stuff while eating it. Any of your sprays that have solvents in them should also be done in well ventilated areas.
>>25584128If I'm just hacking at them with a knife or saw I'll be fine, though? Thanks for the help, anon.
>>25583834The trick to getting smooth edges is to cut with a very sharp knife. Looks like a number of cuts on those hills were made with a knife that was kind of dull. In my pic I've cut up a couple of pieces of large open cell foam (which tends to shred easily with a dull knife) and you can see the edges came out well by using a sharp inexpensive utility knife.
>>25584160>If I'm just hacking at them with a knife or saw I'll be fine, though? Thanks for the help, anon.Yeah, I wouldn't try to purposefully inhale the tiny bits of foam debris, but you should be fine otherwise. Just use a vacuum to clean up the debris and dust when you're done. No matter what type of foam you're cutting, using a sharp knife and making multiple shallow cuts without a lot of pressure will generally give the best results. EPS will give better results than open cell foam if you're cutting with a saw like a thin hack-saw or jewelers saw. But both will make a lot fine dust that you don't want to inhale.
>>25584259I got most of the initial cuts done with just the largest knife to hand, and moved on to a much better (smaller) knife for carving up in detail. And then covered it all in tile adhesive for texture and durability increasing anyway.
Vinyl floor tiles can also be useful. They're typically very thin but also coming with a self-adhesive layer. This is best used to glue on some felt so what you make can have some grip on tabletop. Also it helps when storing stuff as the felt layer helps prevent damage when stacking pieces.A decent use of said vinyl floor tiles is to carve up a bunch to make roads. Just texture and paint them and you've got a good surface that you don't have to worry about warping particularly and that is also very cheap to have a whole load of, to the point that a typical pack of tiles will provide enough road to maybe even make up several different types for your boards.
>>25584219i no am so prud
I built a bridge recently, it's my first piece of terrain, but I'm having a lot of fun with it.It'll probably mostly get used for D&D, but I guess it would work for 40k and the like, as well.
>>25588129That looks really good, anon.
>>25588129Uploaded the wrong pic, that one is good for the detail, though.
Fantastic thread. We should have terrain generals!This is a rock formation I made by stacking bark (not painted yet). Also, CDs make great bases for smaller pieces.
>>25588129>>25588196>>25588205Holy shit. I don't make/use terrain for anything, but damn, that's awesome.
>>25588205Those rocks look awesome. Stacking bark is a brilliant idea!
Sorry for the shit picture but this is 4 panels of my Battle board and some WIP terrain being used in a bro game.Dunno how i'm gunna paint the buildings and shit. May just do them in a Space Wolf Grey colour to contrast.
>>25588129>>25588196That's damn nice! If you cast the parts, then it's double bonus points!If you're up for suggestions, you might very lightly use an old tooth brush and thinned paints in various earth tones to create speckles on the stone. You can also do some heavier washes along the columns and under the lip of the bridge where water and rust would tend to run down the sides over time. The last bit might be some moss or lichen on a few spots that would be shaded from the sun.
>>25588205Gotta love bark, cork or otherwise.It's just so much more practical than using rocks, which you have to paint anyway since otherwise they look wrong.
>>25588410Really cool. The surface cracks and stones give it a cool chaosy atmosphere.
>>25588205That looks good the way it is! I can see where you might want to paint it to go with other terrain you've already made, or at least need to seal it. But that's not bad at all in its current form.
http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?322130-Tyranid-Jungle-Terrain-Wartable Linking a pretty good thread
>>25588548I've got several other similar pieces and a table under construction, I haven't decided on a theme yet but I will be painting them to match. Wanted to do a desert originally but lately I've been feeling old school and wanna go green, especially after seeing>>25582520>>25555123>>25555087
>>25588410>Dunno how i'm gunna paint the buildings and shit. May just do them in a Space Wolf Grey colour to contrast.If you want your dark primer to show in places, then simply spray a slight downward angle from above and let the paint mist over. Otherwise you can do a solid spray color and then do washes and high-lighting. This is a quick and dirty terrain piece that a friend started while playing with my hot wire cutter. He didn't think it would be usable, but I'm pleased with the results even if it isn't perfect. A bit of detailing allows the imagination to fill in the rest.
>>25588732The outside of the building...
>>25588584Jungle terrain... I have way to damn many of the GW plastic jungle trees already.
I guess this is a good place to ask, does anybody know if scans exist for old 40k card buildings such as pic related? Would love to print some off for dat 2e vibe.
>>25588942Wow those bizarre colours look radical!
>>25589249Oh, they totally do. I think I've got the battle bunker somewhere. Give me some time.
>>25589289That would be bloody brilliant bro!
>>25589545Protip: 2nd edition is still best edition
>>25589555The only good thing about 2nd edition was the card terrain
>>25588521Thanks! I made the parts in dental stone from molds I picked up online (Hirst Arts). I'm no sculptor, yet. :)I was definitely planning on adding some moss on the sides and in the edges of the walkway a bit (the less 'travelled' areas, if you will), but the stone speckles and washes are a great idea!I'm starting to think a piece of terrain is never truly done, just forgotten in place of another piece.
>>25589545>>25589555You're a legend sir. Just gotta hunt down an Imperial Guard Command Tower and make some foamball cacti!
>>25589650Goblin green bases or go home
What a king thread, I need more
>>25589650And the game mechanics and army lists, don't forget those.And the illustrations.And the fluff.And the tone.
>>25589772Illustrations were in general not as good as Rogue Trader. Fluff was good in parts. Tone lost some of it's dark&bitter edge as suddenly fluff did not match the overly bright and cheerful colours on tabletop.Army lists were ok but lost too many options of character over RT, mechanics, well, generally ok. Strategy cards needed moderation though, and the psyker phase didn't really gel with the rest of the system as it suddenly became a card game.It was ok. not great, not terrible, knew what it was aiming for at least and still had a semblance of simulation & a decent amount of character to it.
>>25590515It takes balls to argue for RT over 2nd and I respect that but disagree.
>>25590515>>25590941They are both outdated and shitty.
>>25591134They are outdated. Not shit though. Just their age really shows in terms of mechanisms and design philosophy and can be done much better, easier.>>25590941I enjoyed both. RT more though, better longevity due to the style of narrative based scenarios and masses of custom content creation.
>>25591134>They are both outdated and shitty.And I assume you play 6th edition?>>25591182Late RT (post-Battle Manual) is pretty much 2e anyways. I like that during 2e they kept up the encouraging DIY tone, which they've sharply cut off since 5th or so. To my mind, 2e is about as flexible in narrative as 1st, they just don't explicitly aim for that.A thoughtful gamer can draw a lot out of reading 2e alongside Necromunda.
>>25591236Post battle manual but fuck the vehicle manual = best of RT.The vehicle manual was just a bad idea, limiting content creation and messing around with a stupid targeting overlay.2E at least had the Citadel Journal supporting it, it was just a damn shame that suddenly everything got more standardized. Especially removing options from the army lists even though they transferred over a bunch of extra stuff from EPIC, they lost some rather interesting thematic units (muh jumpack devastators and muhreen jetbikes ;_;)
>>25591287>it was just a damn shame that suddenly everything got more standardizedMixed feelings on that. Considering the further standardization that followed, 2nd edition can look remarkably diverse with bow-and-arrow savages fighting Mechanicus techpriest squads and shit like that, but yeah, most of the armies got pretty sharply cut down. It wasn't all necessary, but I think some of it was. What the hell was Chaos supposed to even do?
>>25591463It did get drastically worse upon 3rd edition, though at least white dwarf kept up with adding content via chapter approved then.Chaos was warbands. You didn't have to randomly generate one for the specific campaign system for it in realms of chaos, but the whole chaos corrupting almost anything was the theme, so you could go to town on mixing stuff up, not just having to focus on the marines or cultists/traitors. Though the 2nd edition chaos book was a monster for a codex, heug compared to the rest. Sure it was largely bulked out with realms of chaos stuff, but still, decent.I find it a damn shame though what happened to Orks when they went full madmax but lost the charm. But then I blame 2nd edition models and painting styles not really matching the fluff there, so that orks went full joke on tabletop. Gorkamorka got it about right, but 3rd was just depressing for them.
>>25589285Thanks, they're 'Tyranid Infected' infestation growth.Bumpin with more terrain..
Terrain? 2E? I have just the tome for y'all http://www.lski.org/pictures/tabletopgaming/GW/Guides%20and%20Catalogs/Games%20Workshop%20-%20How%20To%20Make%20Wargames%20Terrain%20%281996%29.pdf
>>25595078>http://www.lski.org/pictures/tabletopgaming/GW/Guides%20and%20Catalogs/Games%20Workshop%20-%20How%20To%20Make%20Wargames%20Terrain%20%281996%29.pdfI don't even know how to respond to this
>>25595078Ow! Right in my childhood...
>>25595078>http://www.lski.org/pictures/tabletopgaming/GW/Guides%20and%20Catalogs/Games%20Workshop%20-%20How%20To%20Make%20Wargames%20Terrain%20%281996%29.pdfThanks for the link! I have the both the old one you linked to and the newer one (from 2003) in print form. (Been playing since 1988 - yeah, I'm an old-fag.)Does anyone have links shots of making river terrain? I'm looking to do some with a glossy surface or even some of the clear resin. Just not sure where to begin?
>>25595078best version of the book.
>>25593782Are you the same guy who posted:>>25555100>>25555123I really like the board style. Super modular. The indiv pieces of terrain don't seem to be made of the polystyrene that many people use. What is it made of? How did you come up with that paint scheme?btw are you famous? I know I've seen these pics somewhere else.
>>25604942OMFG THIS. I was just about to ask about if people used lighting on their board like lampposts and shit.wow
>>25605025You see a lot of lighting used in the official Infinity forum terrain board.
>>25605003Yes, I don't always use my handle when posting, but the pictures you're asking about are all mine. As for the 'paint scheme' you're asking about, I'm not sure if you mean the buildings, the hills or something else? The hills are made of the standard Pink or Blue EPS foam, I just cut mine with a hot wire cutter and then cover them with Gesso before painting them.As for seeing my pics elsewhere - I used to put up links to my stuff on RGMW on usenet back when it had more traffic. Beyond that I've been in a few terrain threads here with Stompa Guy as I like his stuff.Pic - old school IG cardstock terrain
>>25605687I meant the paint scheme of your board and the individual pieces of terrain (not buildings).
>>25605025I've seen this guy's stuff before but I can't think of the web site at the moment - arrrrrggghhh! Storm Lord / Jon Lawhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/jontlaw/5751894737/in/photostream/I've dabbled a little with it, but not to the mad-skillz level that this guy has done it.Captcha: Phrenology - Lulz captcha!
>>25605790>I meant the paint scheme of your board and the individual pieces of terrain (not buildings).Ah! The board itself is simply 1/2 inch thick particle board that I spray painted in several shades of mat (non gloss) green. I even did it thin enough that some of the brown of the original board color shows through lightly in places. >>25555021If you look at my hills in this post, you can see some of the back edges where I used Gesso to cover pink or blue EPS foam. I used 2 solid coats and was then able to color the hills. Instead of using spray paint (to expensive). I purchased several different shades of flat Green interior latex paint (similar to the colors I sprayed on the table top). I laid down a base coat medium green and yellow green and then used chunks of natural sea sponge to blot on the other colors in natural looking random patterns. Since its latex paint I could wash out the sponges and reuse them. You can see the pattern a bit better in this pic.
>>25606010Ah. Sponges! Of course. Hm, been considering doing some more "futuristic" design, like Infinity's. Anyone got advice on quick and dirty buildings/stairs/walkways/floors/etc?
>>25606050Yes - definitely LEDs - either home-made or for model train kits.
>>25606010I didn't think about using particle board for the bottom. Probably much cheaper than a large piece of plywood. What did you use to reinforce the bottom?
>>25606185in this book>>25595078There's a part where they show you how to use the foam from your 40k boxes to make ruined building. or were you looking for whole buildings?
>>25606274One of these days I'll get around to building a 'real' gaming table. ;) My current table is two 2.5 foot by 6.5 foot pieces of particle board resting on some folding metal saw-horses. The boards are kept aligned and in place with several metal plates underneath the boards. I have some counter sunk bolts on either side of the board where the edges meet and wing-nuts on the bottom holding the bolts in place so boards don't move around or sag in the middle. What I'd like to do is build a more sturdy table with a frame and slats underneath so that I can have grass / green on one side and city fight / ash waste colors on the other and simply flip the boards. I'd also build some shelving under the table top for terrain storage. (Some day when I'm flush with extra cash and time.)
>>25606314Well, more "futuristic" designs than your typical 40k stuff, really.
>>25606514Look Mr. Rico! Bugs! Zillions of'em!Well, I've got to go finish mowing our acreage and hacking down the damned Honeysuckle Brush that's growing everywhere. I'll check in later and see if the thread is still alive.
>>25606593Suggestions on spires/tyranid terrain?Was considering some, though it would probably have to fit into a cityscape.
>>25606514>and simply flip the boardsthat day will feel so gud.
>>25606514Where did you get those artillery models?
>>25606618Here's a group shot of my Nid terrain to wet your appetite. I've got to run do a few more bits of Yard work, but should be back in about 20 Minutes or so.>>25608369The big gray ones are Howitzers from an old plastic World War II toy set. The metal one in the back I have no idea where it came from. My youth was in the 70s if that gives you and idea of my age...
>>25609603Done with the 'Honey-do' list for the moment. Lets start with Nid Capillary towers shall we?
>>25610077The tower itself is simply carved foam. The smaller blue bulges are drops of hot glue, while the larger ones further the spine are actually Pistachio shells glued on prior to covering the foam in Gesso. Sprayed it a base color of Purple and then went to town on the painting and highlighting.
>>25610123The tower itself isn't attached to the base but simply rests on top of it. I've never had an issue with it falling over during a game, but if it did, I'd simply put a magnet and some sheet metal on the base to hold it in place. The main reason it comes off is so that it's easier to store and transport.
>>25595078And in honor of the kind Anon Bro-ham who linked to old-school terrain making goodness... Spikey Ballz! You can't truly call yourself a terrain maker if you don't have a set of spikey ballz to play with.> Captcha: carefully... Indeed!
>>25609603>>25610077>>25610123>>25610168>>25610205I just love your army and terrain.This is what 40k looked like when I started the game, bright and colourful yet dark and gritty.
>>25610168Next up we have the handy dandy Nid Reclamation _ool. (Please note - there's no 'P' in it. Please keep it that way!) This was made on 3 or 4mm thick piece of plastic The walls of the pool are simply pink foam cut out using a looped wire hot-wire cutting tool. I did have to cut through it to remove the wire, but I glued it together again and then glued it to the base.
>>25610264>I just love your army and terrain.>This is what 40k looked like when I started the game, bright and colourful yet dark and gritty.Thanks! Yeah, guilty as charged. I started back in 1988 on 40K. I still have my copy of Rogue Trader. Had to have it rebound. Fortunately the college I went to had a service for that at the Library and did the whole thing better than new for less than 10 dollars.
>>25610294While I'm pleased with the pool overall, as you'll be able to see in this shot, it didn't turn out exactly as I wanted it to be. I painted the colors on much of the model including the slime. What I didn't do was wait long enough for the glue to dry holding the Ripper to the base of the pond... When I was pouring the Woodland Scenics water effects into the pool the lazy bug decided to lay down on the job. I had little choice but to leave him there. Overall it isn't perfect, but I like it. Even the bubbles are ok. It gives it that 'Ewww' effect.
>>25610395Awww Crap! It's the Hive Tyrant! Quick, everybody out of the pool!
>>25610417Look! In the background... It's a bird. It's a plane! IT'S A SPORE CHIMNEY! (Exactly how long *CAN* you hold your breath for human meat sack?)
>>25610475As you can see from the minis in the pic for scale, these aren't dinky little terrain bits.
>>25610516These were very easy to make out of pink or blue EPS foam from your typical DIY home improvement store. I simply cut tall blocks of 2" thick foam, drew the rough shape I wanted on them with a felt-tip marker, and cut them out with a hot-wire tool. The blue bulges on them are once again Pistachio shells. Cover them in Gesso, spary on a base color and then wash and detail as needed. These things need better in game rules...
>>25610332Dang, I was born that year.Didn't start until 3rd edition hit, though the styles of 2nd edition carried over into the rulebook and early codexes.
>>25610559Of course no Nid terrain set would be complete without the 'Tyranid Taxi!'. Back in my day these were just 'Eye-candy' to go with your Tyranid 'Seeding Swarm' list. Now they're a unit! Hot Damn!
>>25610567>Dang, I was born that year.You dang kids and your Dan Fogleberg music interwebz! Get off my LAN! :)>Didn't start until 3rd edition hit, though the styles of 2nd edition carried over into the rulebook and early codexes.Ahhh - 2nd Ed! When Carnifex were psychic "Scream Killers" and I.G. were 'Rape Fodder' waiting to happen...
>>25610294>(Please note - there's no 'P' in it. Please keep it that way!)you cheeky little fuck
>>25610604Taxi err... Spore Pod close-up. The only really tricky part with this one was that the surface of the foam tear-drop was rough and full of small holes. Once I carved it and glued on the Pistachio Shells I had to Gesso it repeatedly to seal it completely. (That's the "true" Nid terrain creation process! First you eat it and then it becomes one with the swarm. Heh!)
>>25610761I use plastic lemon containers as Spore Pods in actual games. They're small, cheap and already textured.Don't have any pics though as I'm at work.
>>25610761Like the Capillary Tower, I didn't glue the Spore onto the base either. You can see the rough unpainted underside of the spore. The base is nothing more than a piece of plastic card. The dirt mound is a U shaped piece of foam covered in Gesso that had sand and small stones (train set ballast) mixed. Base coat it, high-light as needed, and then add flock.
>>25610850>I use plastic lemon containers as Spore Pods in actual games. They're small, cheap and already textured.Ohhh! That's a damn skippy cool idea. I don't know that I'll use it myself as I like carving into the surface with my hot wire tools. But that gets massive bonus points for being both 'food related' (appropriately Tyranid in nature!) and inexpensive. The fact that it's textured already is a double bonus!I suppose I could put tentacles on the base to match the new unit rules, but frankly I like it the way it is now. (I had to spell check 'tentacles' - apparently I don't look at enough Hentai...)
>>25610988Alright - a few more 'Eye-Candy' shots and I'll buzz off.
>>25611075You just can't have a good picnic without a few Space Ants...One of these days I'll get my Tervigons painted. No really...Captcha - carotid arefer Any good Tyranid could tell you carotid are fer biting...
>>25611124And my last one. I'll shuffle off to read the rules to 'Eclipse' and 'Rise of the Ancients'. I'm looking forward to playing this in a few weeks with my gaming Bros!
Your table would look cooler if it was grim and dark. It's suffering from Diablo 3 syndrome.
>>25613243Your face is suffering from diablo 3 syndrome
>>25613345It's true, my face is fun yet terrible and ruined by capitalism.
>>25610665I was born '82 and started collecting my tyranid army with 2nd edition. Don't have any screamer-killers though (but I have a couple of 3rd edition 'fexes and a tyrant + lictor from 2nd). Thanks for the terrain advice. Apparently I need gesso and a hot wire cutting tool.
Her green plastic slottabaseFor her fake Citadel rubber plant In the fake brown flock earth That she bought from a LGS man In a store full of neckbeards To get ready for GenConShe paints them up, She paints them upShe paints them up, She paints them up She plays with a broken squad Of grey polystyrene mans Who just crumble and burn They used to have 2+ saves The Codex from the eighties But powercreep always wins She paints them up, She paints them up She paints them up, She paints...It looks like DeathworldIt burns from a plasmagun My fake plastic terrain But I can't help the feeling I could blow through the plating The dreadnaught'd just turn and run She wipes them out, she wipes them out She wipes them out, she wipes them out And if I could be a Demon Prince If I could be a deamon for all time
>>25618299>Thanks for the terrain advice. Apparently I need gesso and a hot wire cutting tool.Gesso can be purchased fairly inexpensively from art supply places like 'DickBlick' online. There's apparently a 'hard' Gesso that I might have to try out and see if it does a better job projecting the foam.
>>25618864A hot-wire tool isn't necessary to create terrain, but it makes it a lot faster and easier to do so when working with foam. Sadly the place I picked mine up from has since gone out of business, so I don't have any current recommendations.
>>25589545>>25589555Fucking awesome. Time to break out the cardstock and pretend I'm seven years old again.I'll have to dig around to see if I can find the scans of the command tower someplace. Or maybe just console myself with the old styrofoam balls and toothpicks.
I've built a lot of terrain for friends and for my own gameboards, but I have never actually played Warhammer. I have a pretty large Skaven army and all the source books and guides, just can never find a good beginner game to get me going.
>>25620503P.S. I didn't make that, nor this one, I'm just posting some terrain that is awesome to look at.
Currently working on some rice paddies, but I am unsure how to finish them, particularly in level of rice growth. Construction is fairly simple, hardboard base, felt underside for grip, some sticks of balsa wood to build up the sides then tile adhesive over all.
>>25621596A pre-undercoat one for comparison
>>25604942>mfw when I thought people were cosplaying or some shit for a solid minuteHoly fucking tits, that's awesome work.
>>25610899>>25610988Oh oh! At a local con called, Rudi-Con out here, the Tyranid player used upside down, slanted pineapples, the foam kind for decoration. They actually looked really nice.
>>25622368Just assume it's part of some industrial doohickey. Or modern art that secretly summons demons
>>25622368i agri my immursin broke now
>>25609603>>25582520This is the kind of stuff that got me into Warhammer.