Posting mode: Reply
Password(Password used for file deletion)
  • Supported file types are: GIF, JPG, PNG
  • Maximum file size allowed is 3072 KB.
  • Images greater than 250x250 pixels will be thumbnailed.
  • Read the rules and FAQ before posting.
  • ????????? - ??

  • File : 1305652861.jpg-(73 KB, 2560x1920, carnifex cast.jpg)
    73 KB FUCK GW JOIN ME IN MY CASTING Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:21 No.14958236  
    So now that GW is ejaculating in the gaping anuses of all the southern hemisphere, how about we have a thread talking about casting our own shit and circumventing the skyrocketing price range.

    Personally, I've cast monstrous creatures, infantry and 45mm based with two different methods.

    Poast your casting results, ask questions, discuss miniature making.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:23 No.14958248
    I whiddle minis out of solid chunks of wood.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:23 No.14958259
    Casting takes too much time, I just steal my shit from GW and local players.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:26 No.14958281
    Going to order some Oyumaru to start my own casting soon. Can anyone suggest a good place to order it cheap?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:26 No.14958282
    Quick and easy. I like your style. Problem, moralfags? We should be free to do anything we want.
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)13:26 No.14958283
         File1305653181.jpg-(76 KB, 448x336, 11082010019.jpg)
    76 KB
    Green stuff ogryns, fuck 12 quid a pop for a unit of ten!!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:26 No.14958289

    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:29 No.14958309
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:30 No.14958315
    Check it, we are not. Different trolls. Ahem. Posters.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:32 No.14958323

    samefag pretending to not be a samefag
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:32 No.14958324

    no idea, how are you planning on using it though? I've heard mixed things
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)13:32 No.14958328
         File1305653557.jpg-(800 KB, 2592x1944, 08012011222.jpg)
    800 KB

    torsos for my savlar infantry platoons.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:32 No.14958329
    But GS is so expensive, I can see that adding up quick.

    I started a thread earlier about molding large miniatures, like Arachnarok specifically. >>14957212

    Anyone who has molded large minis, tanks for instance, please share what you have learned.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:32 No.14958331

    how did you shape the gs?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:33 No.14958338
    Jesus, you're gonna have a fun time sawing those risers off.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:35 No.14958351

    there's a company near you that does cheap RTV silicone (i.e. the normally expensive stuff)

    google 'pinkysil'
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:35 No.14958356

    I have silicon for the cast itself, I'm going to use the oyumaru for the mold. Heat up, press around the figure, then pour the silicon in. I'm also going to experiment with Elmer's Glue to see how bouncy I can get my figures, and how well it holds with small detail.

    The big problem with this is I'm going to have to find bits I haven't already used in my armies to cast.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:36 No.14958366
    You're going to make your minis our of silicone? Why?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:38 No.14958380
    No Im not! I am totally a diferent poster! I mean, we are! Damnit.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:40 No.14958395
         File1305654043.jpg-(298 KB, 700x950, DSCN0410.jpg)
    298 KB
    Just finished playing with oyumaru. I need some Vostroyan heads for converting but sculpting them from scratch takes a lot of work. I'm testing three compounds to see what works best.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:45 No.14958428

    interesting! make sure to post results for comparisons fellow anon.

    I donno if I could use omyru (whatves) it looks too much like something I'd like to eat.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:48 No.14958451

    Why not? You have something better?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:48 No.14958452
    This is copied from the other casting thread but I'd love more opinions:

    What if you used resin in oyumaru moulds... but put it in the fridge? Would the fridge keep the oyumaru from warping while the resin cured at a slower pace or would it not cure at all?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:49 No.14958461

    WELL the resin gets pretty hot so it'll rpobably warp your omyru molds.

    the fidge wont cool fast enough
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:50 No.14958465
    Uh, yea, it's called freaking plastic. Smooth Cast 300. If you make your minis out of silicone you wont be able to paint them and they'll be soft. Did you read any tutorials???
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:52 No.14958476
    Next semester my plan is to start casting skaven, fuck GW and their bullshit
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:53 No.14958487

    My bad. I have resin, not silicon.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:55 No.14958497
    Anyone ever cast resin minis using gelatin moulds?

    apparently all the stuff can be brought cheaply from a supermarket.

    here's a link
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:56 No.14958505
    Aren't Skaven kinda dirt-cheap right now what with Island of Blood? Not saying it's a bad idea to deny GW money, but seems like an awful lot of trouble when eBay's around...
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:56 No.14958508
    Turns soft/liquid when heated :(
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)13:56 No.14958510
    GS from Gw is hella expensive, from other places its not...heresy miniatures sell it for 12 quid for a 36 inch reel of it!!! damn cheaper!!
    make the mould from this stuff http://dentala2z.co.uk/Pre10423, then push the putty in it so much the mould itself has expanded a bit, then give the mould a bit of a squeeze so it returns to its normal size, some putty will be pushed out, leave overnight and your set!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:56 No.14958511
    Could you please detail your testing with resin-on-oyumaru please? I'm >>14958452

    I and several of my friends would be indebted to you if you cast even a tiny thing like a bolter or lasgun.

    If we had genuine results of it working, GW will be losing 6 more customers.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)13:58 No.14958524
    this this this

    make it 7 customers that gw will lose
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:00 No.14958534
    I've been trying with RTV molds but it always leaks like a mother fucker.

    So far I've done 2 zoanthropes. On the first one half the limbs didn't turn out and the back of the head didn't form. On the second I put resin on both halfs of the mold then joined them together which worked better, however one of the tiny arms didn't turn out and looks like a block of plastic. Other than that it looks fine.

    I've attempted to make a hive guard out of this weird clay mold stuff I found for cheap at a local hobby place, and the results looked ok at first. But I noticed a ton of buildup in the crevasses (even after using mold release). Also somehow one side of the model got squished and looks flatter than the other.

    I attempted to use mold builder to make a ripper swarm that came out with mixed results. It looks ok but alot of the rippers where damaged and had to be replaced (rending the work not worth it). HOWEVER I must say that the mold builder works wonders for making ectra bases. I am currently attempting to use mold builder on individual rippers so we will see how that goes.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:02 No.14958558
    is possible to cast using gs and oyamaru?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:03 No.14958573

    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:04 No.14958577

    Resin really doesn't heat up that much when setting - not unless you cast really large models.

    I've cast resin successful in remelt vinyl rubber - didn't think the process would be any different in this case.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:05 No.14958595

    Whole minis would be a bitch, and if you're getting your GS from GW then it's not worth the cost. The mark up for the shit is ridiculous: $10 for 10 inches. You can find that stuff $12 for 36 inches if you shop around online.

    Either way, I suggest just using GS for bits and such; a whole model would get out of hand.
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:07 No.14958607
         File1305655635.jpg-(1.61 MB, 2592x1944, 14032011253.jpg)
    1.61 MB
    Resin cast lasguns of various types and a autogun for my savlar
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:08 No.14958620

    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:08 No.14958626
    For Swedishmen (or those close enough)

    Harts(resin) and Silicone.

    Have fun.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:09 No.14958627
    fuck yeah, I ordered some oyamaru however you spell it and I'm gonna get some cheaper GS asap.

    I think this heralds a new era. An era of great things.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:09 No.14958631

    I totally meant www.kinn.com
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:10 No.14958639
         File1305655830.jpg-(1.21 MB, 2592x1944, 17052011303.jpg)
    1.21 MB
    The platoon im working on at the mo, still got the arms to do.
    Saved like 200 quid doing it this way.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:13 No.14958654
    I'm not too familiar with resin, but I know Smooth Cast 300 gives off a good amount of heat.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:14 No.14958664
    that's an amazing video, bookmarking for further reference.
    >> Glutton 05/17/11(Tue)14:16 No.14958679
    Didn't see this posted yet, so here you go OP.

    Dump Commencing.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:17 No.14958683

    I started doing castings recently.
    The casting has been passable but I'm seeing the need for a vacuum/pressure chamber. I've started pulling together the parts needed to build one.
    I'm not sure if using a tire nipple is a good idea considering the vacuum element, so I'm probably going to look into an alternative valve. The metal screw cap on it should be good enough to ensure a seal but better safe than sorry.
    >> Glutton 05/17/11(Tue)14:18 No.14958689
         File1305656291.jpg-(2.04 MB, 4476x3517, Wall of Bootleg.jpg)
    2.04 MB

    And of course I forget the fucking pic.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:18 No.14958694

    depending on the resin it can heat up quite a lot, actually.

    It's because the polymerisation reaction is exothermic, faster casting resins basically release a lot more energy in a short amount of time.

    my 30min casting resin easily increases temp from 21C to 50C when I'm mixing it.


    Keep at it soldier- you'll find a method that works for you. It took me three/four attempts to get to the point where I *know* I can produce a mould and a cast first time round.

    Thankfully I used cheap materials
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:21 No.14958708

    That looks pretty cool. Do you have a bigger picture?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:22 No.14958725
         File1305656576.jpg-(55 KB, 831x500, r1.jpg)
    55 KB

    This is a decently comprehensive guide to resin casting with a two part silicone mold. A bit hands on but i'd think that resin casting is one of the cheapest and, once you actually get your molds made fastest ways to cast an army.

    This guy in particular seems to have his shit together pretty well, the video is detailed and he produces some decent looking minis, though you don't actually get to see them painted or anything.
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:23 No.14958728
         File1305656597.jpg-(94 KB, 448x336, 08112010123.jpg)
    94 KB
    i think so
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:24 No.14958739
         File1305656682.jpg-(69 KB, 336x448, 11112010134.jpg)
    69 KB
    one of the completed ones.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:25 No.14958742

    Save face, blame it on captcha.
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:28 No.14958766
         File1305656895.jpg-(61 KB, 336x448, 11112010142.jpg)
    61 KB
    another one.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:31 No.14958791
    Any of you have brand recommendations for both RTV and resin?

    I was using a 15 minute cure time for resin and found that it's just a little too fast. Probably want to shoot for *at least* 30 minutes cure, I think.

    The RTV I'm using currently (I forget the brand and I'm not at home ATM) mixes on a 1 to 1. The white part should be mixed thoroughly since elements settle at the bottom and get to be like mud down there. It gets difficult to stir.
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:36 No.14958842
    Resin wise i use this one (G27 beige), sets pretty quick though, why do you need one that sets so slowly?

    As for RTV, i use this in combination with the above resin, works well, easy to cut, lasts ages too when used again and again.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:36 No.14958849

    TOMPS fast cure polyurethane resin
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:44 No.14958917

    I found that 15 minutes doesn't give enough time to work out bubbles on parts with very fine details. I've been forcing the resin into the mold under partial pressure with a syringe but the tiny air bubbles tend to remain (these are not air pockets as you might find with poor venting.) No needle -can you imagine how much a bitch that would be to clean?

    I recently picked up a pretty big syringe so I can save myself a few seconds of draw time from mix to mold. Costs about 1.50 USD for it.
    >> Fabricator 05/17/11(Tue)14:47 No.14958932
    Ah right, makes sense.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:48 No.14958942

    Rub material into mold with finger or brush to get entire surface.
    Don't use too much release.
    Shake and tilt the mold while and after filling.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:50 No.14958955
    I found this article once while looking for information on casting. Might with the air/bubbles.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)14:52 No.14958968
    I'm attempting (see: experimenting) with a large block of paraffin wax I bought a long time ago on a whim, to see if it makes good enough molds to use resin on a few times. It might be fun, and this wax is just sitting around doing nothing.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:03 No.14959049
    >"You know what I feel like? buying a big block of fucking wax. Yeah. That's cool."

    No ill will towards you, I just find that fucking hilarious.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:21 No.14959189

    You wanna know the funny thing? That's exactly what I did. I was at an art store and a 10lbs block of it was ten bucks on sale. So why the fuck not?

    So far: Created a mold around a d20. Mold was too thin and shattered almost instantly. Thicker mold is around a warhammer piece right now. We'll see how it goes.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:24 No.14959227

    I can see how paraffin might be limited in use due to inflexibility. There might be a temperature problem but maybe not for pewter?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:31 No.14959301

    So far my experiments seem to be a failure. The wax is too brittle. I wish I could afford oyumaru.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:34 No.14959326
    You just spent more money on a big thing of useless wax than on 6 sticks(more than enough for any model) of Oyumaru.
    That plus another 20 bucks would have gotten you enough resin to cast like 40-50 models.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:36 No.14959338

    Clearly you're not seeing he point here. I didn't get it for making molds. I got it because it's a big block of fucking wax.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:37 No.14959346

    oyumaru isn't that bad. I think you can get it for like 6 bucks.

    You can probably use the paraffin for simple 1 piece casting for stuff like terrain walls and the like. Just make sure it's thick. You might need to dress the final product a little.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:38 No.14959360
    Well what are you going to do? Make a 10lb candle?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:39 No.14959373

    So far it seems to be pretty shitty for this but its taking up less room on a shelf now, so mission accomplished. I plan ti get oyumaru when I get the money. I already have resin waiting.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:41 No.14959399

    No. That would be silly.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:42 No.14959408
    But would the resin's exothermic reaction produce enough heat to deform the oyumaru mould? That's what I'd like to know, cause then I'd be churning out entire boxed sets out of my fucking bedroom every day.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:44 No.14959428

    From what i've heard it seems to come out perfectly.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:48 No.14959449


    Source? Because everything I've read says it will not work, and plasti lets off ALOT of heat when turning solid.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:48 No.14959455
    You must make a topic on /tg/ detailing your process. I MUST have a guarantee of this working before I shell out for a ton of resin, you'd be saving me much moolah, broseph :V
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:49 No.14959458
    Don't you own a fridge? If you're that worried, toss that shit in the fridge for the first few minutes, then let it finish curing at room temp.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:49 No.14959466

    Weird. Everything I've read states differently.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:49 No.14959469
    I kind of what to make gaming themed candles now.


    …If I had the molds for a dreadnaught could I put a wick in it and make a dreadnaught candle? Could I make pile of guardsman candles for a Warhammer themed birthday cake?


    I think this is one of the best ideas I've had in a while. >brb, getting older so I can justify putting more candles on my next birthday cake
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)15:54 No.14959516
    Yes I do own a fridge, I asked this question on two threads now: Would resin still cure (albeit slower) if put into a fridge or will it stop curing completely?

    If you can put resin in oyumaru and leave it to cure for a few hours in the fridge so the mould won't deform due to heat, I'd be in business.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:01 No.14959573
    Oyumaru is not for pour molds.
    Use silicone. Amerifags can get enough resin/silicone to do a whole army from http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/ for 60$.
    Casting's already hard enough without using wierd shit like wax and oyumaru.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:02 No.14959588
    You can, and you should.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:03 No.14959601
    Yes. It cures fine. Just take it out after a few minutes to finish curing at room temp. I've cast a mess of wraithguard and night runners this way.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:07 No.14959653
    I see, so it takes how long for it to cure?

    I put the resin in the mould, shove it in the fridge for 5-10 minutes then take it out till it finished curing after, say 10 minutes?

    Also, got any photos (maybe of the process also?)
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:17 No.14959747
    Pretty much this, but for final cure time I'd wait a bit longer. If you try to demold too early, the resin is still flexible and possible to muck up detail. On the safe side, after I pull 'em out of the fridge I wait about 30 minutes.

    Pics, no. I'll try to scrounge some up soon.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:19 No.14959759
         File1305663545.jpg-(195 KB, 430x510, talja_tragubbar032.jpg)
    195 KB

    motherfucker has like 8000 points of Empire in there
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:20 No.14959774
         File1305663647.jpg-(57 KB, 500x500, 2095652129_9bb5ee944f.jpg)
    57 KB
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:20 No.14959775
    This thread has inspired me to cast my Chaos Space Marines. I am worried about casting Chaos Terminators however, those bastards have a lot of small details all over them.

    From what I have seen, I will try to make silicone molds rather than Oyumaru.

    Should have enough money to start in a few weeks. Thanks to everyone for spreading the wealth of information. I will be sure to document my endeavors and post as much as I can when everything is said and done.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:25 No.14959800
    A thousand blessings! May your camels stay healthy and the blessed wind of Allah be at your back until you join him, friend.

    It's time /tg/. It's time to DUPE TILL I DROP.

    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:25 No.14959802
    >> Nephanim 05/17/11(Tue)16:25 No.14959803
    Cold casting is a pretty interesting method, though it takes a LOT longer. I recommend putting both halves of the resin in the fridge (or even freezer) to cool them down before casting, even if you weren't planning to set the molds in the fridge, colder resin reacts more slowly, meaning not only do you have less risk of damaging the mold, but you have more working time to stir, degas and pour.

    However, keeping molds in the freezer would indeed keep many resins from setting up at all.. If you can put a shaker table in your freezer, this is great, otherwise, meh.

    To answer your question, in the fridge, you might increase the set time by 50% to 100%, so don't assume it will just take a few minutes longer.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:28 No.14959823

    Watch some videos first! I cannot stress how important it is, otherwise it will catch and set around an arm, and you'll lose the piece. You CANNOT do this with complete models!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:29 No.14959835
    I understand bro, but if I'd be trading speed of curing for the mould to not be deformed then it's far better. I don't mind waiting a day for stuff to set but I DO mind all my work going down the shitter cause everything comes out looking like Meltman from Kablam!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:30 No.14959846

    I have the youtube video that was posted earlier saved, along with the entire series. Before I start I will be sure to gather up as much info as I can.

    Now, how difficult would it be to cast a Land Raider, or Defiler, as long as all of the parts are separated?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:35 No.14959902

    This thread is now about this man, his huge block of wax and his struggle to make candles.
    I know there are places that sell candle scents with really weird smells. NURGLE THEME CANDLES
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:40 No.14959947

    Depends on what you're using I suppose. Oyumaru seems to be only good for the small pieces. Anything larger and you'd need molding clay ($3 for a pound at any art store/school) since the pieces are generally a lot larger.

    Wax Guy here, I'm trying a much larger amount of wax around a d20 right now, in the hopes of eventually making chocolate d20's.

    We found a small ball of molding clay in someone's closet. This stuff holds details really well, but it's far too dirty to use. I might attempt to make some guns with it later or something, since every tutorial suggests molding clay + resin.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:43 No.14959976

    Found a vendor selling Leather Scented Candles at an event recently. This... worries me.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:44 No.14959997

    Wouldn't that just make the dice taste like wax? I have eaten chocolate that tasted like wax, it was not pleasant.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:46 No.14960016

    What? That would be awesome. Make a giant 10 pound castle candle! It could be dual purpose: Terrain and emergency lighting!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:48 No.14960043

    The chocolate would melt the wax. This is a EXPERIMENT, because the wax is junk, and I don't want to waste the expensive resin I have before I know what I'm doing.

    From what everyone is saying, the resin would heat up the wax too much anyway, so this is all just for fun at this point. We're experimenting more with the modeling clay now than the wax.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:48 No.14960046

    They have candles in the shape of skulls w/ a different colour wax on the inside. Once it burns down enough, the inside wax 'bleeds' out of they eye sockets.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:51 No.14960082

    Now that is just absolutely Satanic. It's good to see the very feminine hobby of candle making get turned into that.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:53 No.14960109
    Hmm, with enough time and a little effort I could cast any army I want with substantially less cost. Tau, tyranids, the whole shebang.

    Another question. As long as I am casting these for myself, and not distributing them in any way, it is perfectly legal correct?

    I am very excited for this...
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:56 No.14960144

    I don't know, and if it's illegal how are you going to get prosecuted if you keep them to yourself? I think the worst that could happen is you getting banned from a GW store/tournament if they found out.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:57 No.14960146
    Yes it's perfectly legal, just don't boast about it.

    Besides, fuck GW. It's been assreaming you and everyone else for years, they don't deserve your concern.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)16:59 No.14960175

    This is true and I agree whole-heartedly. I was just curious.

    I have never had a problem pirating a video game in the past, now I shall move on to pirating real life shit. Although casting is far more legal..... I am still going to wear a pirate hat the entire time I am working on this.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:03 No.14960219

    Kind of like how I don't boast about making moonshine. If few knows you do it, no one's gonna ask for you to sell to them, you won't get tempted into selling and no one's going to bust you.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:07 No.14960271
         File1305666467.jpg-(16 KB, 328x240, 1292645867275.jpg)
    16 KB
    Methanol eh?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:19 No.14960410

    Ethanol, actually. No reason to bother making Methanol, that's pretty cheap to buy as is and I don't really have any use for it.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:20 No.14960433
    Here is a bit of information I would like to know from those of you that are already casting:

    How many pulls did it take before you got an acceptable cast? Was the first pull good to go, or did it take a bit of refining and trial/error?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:21 No.14960436
    Going by the silicone/resin method- has anyone been able to duplicate full sprues or am I gonna have to cut off each piece and do it that way?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:26 No.14960486
    you can sell methanol to people that make bio-diesel, its one of the ingredients along with lye and fryer grease.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:30 No.14960519

    The legality is basically: As long as you aren't selling it or making any kind of profit on it, who cares?

    Now, your FLGS WILL CARE. I need to make this clear:


    You're taking away from their profits that are made by selling GW figures they buy from GW. Should they be angry? Yes.

    On the other hand, once you buy the figures, you can do whatever the fuck you want with them.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:40 No.14960623
    I don't think this really applys for OOP figurines. I mean they can't get them and the only place you can get them is over ebay or one of those trading sites. As for new shit...haha
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:45 No.14960679

    Ok, I have to be the idiot: OOP?

    I've shown my FLGS owner several custom-made pieces, and he loved them and allows them in tournament play. If I made an entire model in this method though, I probably would never be allowed to return.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:48 No.14960708
    out of production
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)17:48 No.14960714
    I've tried casting before with a resin called "Alumilite". My advice: Stay away from this stuff. It's cheap-ish, and sets fast, but it sets TOO fast. You literally have like 15-20 seconds to pour this shit and get any air bubbles out before it sets. So it could be good for large pieces that you want to crank out, but for smaller pieces it's rubbish.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:03 No.14960853

    Like I said, I wouldn't want to sell it as that will bring down the cops on you.
    Although it's not impossible for a regular joe to get a permit to produce methanol for personal fuel needs, IIRC.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:12 No.14960959
    yeah its just a tax stamp.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:12 No.14960962
    a permit to produce methanol? See, this is where my usual ignorance on laws n such comes forward but who gives a fuck?

    Are they going to do random raids on a random guy's house and jot down every illegal thing on a notepad? Fuck 'em I say, do your own shit so long as you don't boast.

    Shit, I made fucking napalm and thermite in my kitchen, whose going to stop me?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:25 No.14961102

    A stiller large enough to satisfy your fuel needs would most likely need to be large, smelly, give off a lot of heat and so on. If you had a garage of your own and no snoopy neighbours, sure.

    And before you know it you're gonna get caught with 2 cubic metres of stolen sawdust in the back of your car. In all of your car. You are sitting in it as you drive.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:27 No.14961129
    to various anons asking various questions

    >will I get perfect results first try?

    Depends on the method you're using. Probably not if you're using silicone or silicone sealant methods

    GOLDEN RULE- Test before you try. That way you don't imbed your $30 warhams in a tomb of silicone.

    try making just one mould half of a good test peice (something you don't care about with surface detail), then make two halves, try pouring your resin, and build up your confidence.

    It took me three attempts to make something that I could clean up to tabletop standard, and another attempt to get things just right.

    While it may feel like a waste of time this does save materials in the long run, and once you're over the learning curve you can cast away pretty easily.

    >can I cast whole sprues?

    Probably not- resin is expensive (though not as expensive as warhams) and you don't really want to be using all your resin to replicate sprues.

    Sprues exist because when you're mass-producing plastic minis you want your tools (steel mould halves) to have as large a surface area as possible with as many peices on the sprue to maximise profit.

    this is because the tools cool down quicker after each demould - you can make more shit faster.

    generally what I do is for larger peices use a silicone mould and for smaller ones use a latex glove mould. But each piece is removed from the sprue and filed and cleaned up beforehand. No point in casting all of GW's mouldlines as well as making your own
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:38 No.14961260
    Post more results!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:47 No.14961382
         File1305672453.jpg-(1.29 MB, 1536x2048, DSC00082.jpg)
    1.29 MB
    almost missed this thread today

    anyway I made this slag troll with oyumaru and milliput
    the feet got fucked and one even broke, but i managed to fix it by casting new ones.
    more pics next
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:49 No.14961400
         File1305672563.jpg-(1.14 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00128.jpg)
    1.14 MB
    not only this was my first try at molding and casting but also in painting miniatures (I usually lurk here for the occasional boardgames thread)
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:50 No.14961411
         File1305672605.jpg-(1.05 MB, 2048x1536, Muldmake (12).jpg)
    1.05 MB

    my first testpeice cast in wax
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:51 No.14961430
         File1305672694.jpg-(1 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00131.jpg)
    1 MB
    I also have some files ordered and on the way so that I won't have to use my dremel to trim the miniatures (yeah, a dremel, i'm new to the hobbie and borderline idiot).
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)18:57 No.14961494

    that's really good- I wouldn't expect that kind of quality with milliput and jappo jelly.

    Do you have a pic of the mould that you cast it from? looks to me like a two piece one
    >> Ahriman the Exiled !.CzKQna1OU 05/17/11(Tue)19:00 No.14961528
    I've been using oyumaru and milliput for casting stuff for a bit, mostly making 1kson heads. I've just started on making another copy of the common parts of the Necrosphinx/Warsphinx, the mold for half the body turned out surprisingly well.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:05 No.14961597
    two piece oymaru moulds, how do they work?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:10 No.14961661
         File1305673804.jpg-(1.33 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00138.jpg)
    1.33 MB
    exactly, just took these from some leftovers

    i used talc powder to prevent air bubbles but ended up having talc bubles instead D:
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:11 No.14961683
         File1305673888.jpg-(1.42 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00139.jpg)
    1.42 MB
    and joined
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:11 No.14961687
    I love this thread so damn much.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:13 No.14961713
         File1305674013.jpg-(1.3 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00133.jpg)
    1.3 MB
    also bits for a troll impaler, an already assembled slag troll (another one, second try) and some leftover oyumaru.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:14 No.14961723

    it's looking a lot like I could really do with investing in some of this stuff
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:14 No.14961728
         File1305674096.jpg-(1.27 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00137.jpg)
    1.27 MB
    front of the new slag troll
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:16 No.14961736
         File1305674165.jpg-(1.23 MB, 2048x1536, DSC00136.jpg)
    1.23 MB
    back (i really need those files)
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:16 No.14961741
         File1305674194.jpg-(18 KB, 232x273, Bush_Laughing.jpg)
    18 KB
    mfw samfeag
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:18 No.14961766
    In fact I checked it, not samefag. Surprisingly.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:22 No.14961797
    is the mold..... blue tac?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:22 No.14961802
         File1305674552.jpg-(16 KB, 409x295, bush-laugh-0503.jpg)
    16 KB
    mfw half assed defense
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:28 No.14961855

    We determined we don't care about... what... 4 or 5 hours ago?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:38 No.14961980

    im cum

    is this standard milliput or a white variety?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:53 No.14962150
         File1305676409.jpg-(76 KB, 800x680, mk3-4.jpg)
    76 KB
    Hey guys, would it be possible to mould up some stuff that was still on the sprue? Pic related - I really want to build an iron-armour marine chapter, so is it a good idea to mould the parts like this? or to seperate them from the sprue?
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)19:58 No.14962203

    I can't see any problem with this, of course I don't have any experience. This is what I planned to do for the most part.

    Take the leg sprue, as long as the legs are pointing towards the top of the mold, and you place another bit of sprue some where in the middle to act as an injection point like this image:


    I would trim off a lot of the excess sprue as well so you aren't wasting resin.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)20:04 No.14962258
    standard yellow milliput, a pack of it was able to cast 3 trolls, 3 pygs and some leftovers for some random crap.
    Good for skirmish type games, donno if it's good for 40k.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)20:19 No.14962429
    Take off some of the sprue and I'll go into a bit of detail since you'll need it for this me thinks.

    First off go buy some plasticine(since you can pour silicone over it). Now you'll need to push the legs, torso, etc. into the plasticine(also make sure to key the mould, simply get a pen or something and push it in to create an indent) and make sure that they are halfway covered in the plasticine. Next create an upraised line of plasticine connected to the bits. Then create the walls of the mould box either out of plasticine or mdf(I reccomend mdf).

    Now comes the hard part, mix the silicone in with the silicone catalyst. From what I remember it is 1 to 2 percent silicone catalyst to silicone's weight. Mix throughoughly and then when it is mixed pur from the corner of your casting box until covered sufficently. Now due the following:
    A) If you have a degassing chamber USE IT. Cause it gets out air bubbles like nobody's business.

    B)USe a laundry machine, set it to spin and put the mould on top of it. Ta-da most of the bubbles will be out.

    Bubbles are bad and can hurt a mould espeically when casting in resin. Now leave it for a day. Ad the end of the day peel back all the plasticine from your bits and make sure to NOT REMOVE THEM IN THE PROCESS. Also make sure to create the other half of the plasticine pour point and then pour in the other half of the mixed silicone. Wait another day and there ya go. Your own little two part mould. :)

    >own utomist

    interesting captcha, interesting...
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)20:56 No.14962892
    Wax Guy here.

    Just updating to say that the wax DID NOT work, but from everything we learned while experimenting with it, we are now going to be using a mixture of resin and modeling clay to make pieces for the rest of the day. I need to rip apart some Terminators!

    Thanks for the advice on the dryer, that's a damn good idea!
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:03 No.14962962
    Cheers! Glad it helped at least.

    Was a handy solution for a crystal clear resin I sued after college shut downthe workshop we use for our course in the summer :I.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:07 No.14963009
    Although that post is understandable, at first blush i thought that your college was the College of Magic, from that Workshop, and you were suing them. :(
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:10 No.14963047
    Hurr lol no.
    God work for games workshop, thou mad?

    Nah the course I'm in covers film prop making and casting small to large objects in silicone/clay/plaster hence why I do it and practice it and a lot of 3D... hoo boy a lot of 3D. But yeah casting in silicone is the promo way to go for this business, a need file, 80 grade sandpaper double side taped to a block of mdf and a dremel are all that really can be used for this.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:11 No.14963058

    At first reading, I'm still confused about "blush"
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:16 No.14963113
    Since you have good advice, please advise me on this: I have made about 10 molds, but did a poor job with the vents. What is the best approach to resolve them? Pick a direction and tunnel up?

    Also, will baby powder work for the molds, or does it have to be talcum powder with no additives?

    I see what you did there ...
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:18 No.14963132

    I just use a carving knife and scratch upwards in any direction. As long as the air is getting out it shouldn't matter.

    I use Pam oven spray for mine. I suppose powder would be better though...
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:22 No.14963176
    Ergh... okay I've only had to do this once or twice but basically yeah jut be very very carfeful and do it with a surgical scalpel or knife. Think of it liek cutting a pear or apple where you make a square cut. Jsut make sure that it is thin enough that it won't waste to much resin. Also that it's wide enough for the resin to go down. above all else try not to use a drill, I made that mistake once when I was being an idiot in my first year of my course, paid for it by having to recast the pillar :I.

    Talcum, no additives also coincidentally you can do a light spray of silicone release agent which extends a mould's life by a good number of casts. Also an easy way of getting silver is to spray on a bit of silver spray paint(only a light coating) into the mould before puring in the resin.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:22 No.14963183
    ITT: Whiny bitches cry some more about something which isn't that big a deal, think everything in life should be given to them on a platter free of charge.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:27 No.14963218

    >didn't read the thread and see how much work and trial and error this involves

    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:30 No.14963245

    Wow, sorry, shit, I didn't realize being pathetically cheap and sore was so hard work. And there I thought you were all COMPLETE wastes of DNA.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:41 No.14963347
    Let's see you make two casts of a legend of zelda ruppee only to find your shed is on a tilt mate. Or better still see you cast somethign in silicone with no help, would love to see how far you get.

    Hell I don't even play 40K I'm just in here and staying up late to help some elegan/tg/entlemen out.
    >> Anonymous 05/17/11(Tue)21:51 No.14963448
    Has anyone made an entire space marine?
    >> That paint guy. 05/17/11(Tue)22:15 No.14963678
    Does anybody have some comparrison shots? Say, the original next to the copy so we can get an idea for just how direct a copy can be done? How about those instruction images that run us through step-by-step?

    I'm seriously considering this with the recent fiasco that is GW-OZ, but I've never worked with anything like this before.
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)01:11 No.14965565
    >> Dr. Baron von Evilsatan 05/18/11(Wed)01:14 No.14965592

    Do you have more hi-res pictures? I'm starting to wonder if I won't cast things myself, but I would have to know it can be done to a standard that's nearly visually-indstinguishable. Not 'close enough is good enough', but to the point that, when painted, you'd need to actually hold the model up to your eyes to spot the flaws.
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)02:50 No.14966487
         File1305701458.jpg-(462 KB, 834x1000, DSCN0427.jpg)
    462 KB
    >>14958395 here.
    I fucked up pretty bad but I got what I needed. The components I used were Magic Sculp, greenstuff and acrylic resin. The resin in question was not made for this and regular greenstuff couldn't hold enough detail for my liking. Already made another batch to have some Sculp in them. You just have to be a bit careful when filling the oyumaru with whatever component you have to not warp the product as it still retains some elasticity.
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)05:03 No.14967428
    Okay I've been making molds using the "dunk it in latex methods" like in that picture, and I'm wondering if supaglue will hold latex together so i can repair molds and stop resin leaking out?
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)06:01 No.14967713
         File1305712863.jpg-(8 KB, 203x250, mm3.jpg)
    8 KB
    This is my flamer SoB
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)06:09 No.14967749
    dunking in latex works but you should cover the latex mould in milliput or some harder substance.
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)06:50 No.14967883
    my god that's blurry, did you cast a poo?
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)09:34 No.14968558
    Here's a question... Can you reheat and reuse oyumaru if you decide yo want to make a different mold with it?
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)10:02 No.14968686

    When using RTV silicone make sure to use plenty of separating agent to prevent the two mould halves sticking together.

    WD-40 works well, this is the best advice I can give.
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)10:03 No.14968693

    yes, that's the beauty of it

    just boil a kettle and put some hot water in a bowl and it takes seconds to soften

    or if you're a smart nigger keep a pan of water on a stove, or use a Thermos Flask so you always have hot water
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)15:26 No.14970856
         File1305746793.jpg-(339 KB, 1667x1250, BILD0035 (1).jpg)
    339 KB
    Here's a Pretorian Stalker I cast out of roofing lead.
    >> Anonymous 05/18/11(Wed)21:25 No.14973940

    Delete Post [File Only]
    Style [Yotsuba | Yotsuba B | Futaba | Burichan]